Good info so far, so I'll just add:
I'm just copying a setup pioneered by Ed for the KTM 1190.
I'm very impressed with the current crop of LED spotties, but reckon they still don't match the punch of a HID in the distance stakes. However, the HID spotties have several drawbacks namely,
The focused beam has to be aimed just right to get the best out of it. Because the LEDs have a broader throw they can be slightly off aim wise and still give you a good result.
HIDs give you more splash back or glare back from road signs than LEDs. Of course the problem could be solved by the authorities angling the signs a little bit, but yeah, never gonna happen.
HIDs take a little time to give full light output when switched from Cold.
On the plus side, they give great punch down the road. Also, becuase LEDs are flavour of the month HIDs are getting cheaper. I initially paid one fiddy for a pair of cheap 5" Chinee HIDs from fleabay, one of which you can see on the Kato, which give great performance. Last week I bought a set of 7" HIDs from Fleabay for 70 bucks delivered and they also work great!
But how to get around the warmup time? Easy, run a LED/HID combo. The Clearwaters are obviously the cats whiskers, but the 10" lightbar pictured from Rigid has a combo of spot and spread beams, gives good performance and while pricey ($450) is not as eye watering as some of the other options. So the HID gives good distance, the LED fills the gaps beautifully and can be run on its own effectively when there are a lot of road signs around.
The only trap I can think of for young players is that while you can get away with a cheap ass HID, with LEDs you tend to get what you paid for. So don't be afraid to buy Chinee HIDs, but consult with the collective here before you lay down your hard earned for LEDs
Edit: 35 watts for the 5" HID, 50 for the lightbar, but that's 2500 lumens. It's possible to get a workable LED spotty with half those watts.