Long distance fuel tank

Gatey

Premier Member
IBA Member
#21
Frans may I point you towards drilling a then tapping the pump plate to take an M10 or M12 Banjo bolt and body. ( M12 is not easy to get)
This will give you a flatter and closer plumbing route to the pump plate and reduce the risk of not having enough room under the seat. Or under the pump plate for that matter too. Bulkhead fittings typically then require an elbowto connect the hose and worse still a large nut on the underside/inside to hold it in. On a tank thats not a problem but fitting that nut in the space under the pump plate does not look possible from the pics Ox has posted. These combined can be as tall as 30mm Fine if there is enough room.
Those red and blue fittings are called AN Fittings and come in a group of sizes standardised across the industry. You may see this written as AN-6 or AN-8 6 is smaller than eight and thus runs smaller hose lines. Earls and others stock Speedflow there are others.
Ive always used Speedflow as they are Made locally.


Have a look here. http://www.speedflow.com.au/product_range.html

and here for Earls. https://www.earls.com.au/

Have a look at what Rollins been up to here. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/iron-butt-adventures.1187139/

Got to say the CTX has been growing on me a bit.
 
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Gatey

Premier Member
IBA Member
#22
Hers is a list of Speedflow parts for tank fit-up Frans. Taken from my old records
The stuff underlined is what your looking for> YOU may however need reducers to fit the Aux tank fittings that come with it.

This is a guide only and may help you as your looking through the parts links posted above.

Club Fabrication Service

ST 1300 Fuel Cell.03 onward.

Build date April 2014.


Fuel tank Parts List.


CFS/SCE tank flat pack.

CFS tank bracket.

200 series hose ends part numbers. (From the tap to the main tank).

1 of 203-06-D 90 degree elbow.

Onto

1 of 201-06-D straight.

Onto filter

1 of 201-06-D straight.

Onto

203-06-D 90 degree elbow.

Into Young’s adaptor.

1 of Banjo Body 302-03 to suit M10x1.25 bBolt.

1 only 400 series push fit. 403-06-Dfor the tank vent only.


Tank weld-on parts and large parts.

1 of 460-32 aluminium 52mm filler neck/cap.

2 of 905-32 “O “rings to suit above cap.

1 of 999-06-D aluminium weld-on male.

1 of 990-06-D Alloy orb -6 size, weld-on female.

1 of 650-6 male/male -6 small body valve. This is your tap

1 of 610-6 in/ -6 out none return. These require to be dismantled and the spring removed to become a rollover stop valve

1 of 600-06 BLK -6 male/ male -6 filter.

I don't use those plastic quick connect fitting mate.
Go to your local boat retailers and buy one set Chrysler or Yamaha or Suzuki fuel tank connectors. Their S/Steel with an appropriate hose barb (8mm or 5/16) or bigger.
They will handle a good dropping and wont bend in the heat.
The filters are serviceable not throw out. Clean and flush by the side of the road as long as its fitted downstream of the tap and upstream of the quick connect. Turn off the tap, Undo the quick connect. Unscrew the end of the filter tip out the worst, turn the tap on and of and flush the filter the reconnect and make good your escape.
 

Fransvdm

Premier Member
#23
Hers is a list of Speedflow parts for tank fit-up Frans. Taken from my old records
The stuff underlined is what your looking for> YOU may however need reducers to fit the Aux tank fittings that come with it.

This is a guide only and may help you as your looking through the parts links posted above.

Club Fabrication Service

ST 1300 Fuel Cell.03 onward.

Build date April 2014.


Fuel tank Parts List.


CFS/SCE tank flat pack.

CFS tank bracket.

200 series hose ends part numbers. (From the tap to the main tank).

1 of 203-06-D 90 degree elbow.

Onto

1 of 201-06-D straight.

Onto filter

1 of 201-06-D straight.

Onto

203-06-D 90 degree elbow.

Into Young’s adaptor.

1 of Banjo Body 302-03 to suit M10x1.25 bBolt.

1 only 400 series push fit. 403-06-Dfor the tank vent only.


Tank weld-on parts and large parts.

1 of 460-32 aluminium 52mm filler neck/cap.

2 of 905-32 “O “rings to suit above cap.

1 of 999-06-D aluminium weld-on male.

1 of 990-06-D Alloy orb -6 size, weld-on female.

1 of 650-6 male/male -6 small body valve. This is your tap

1 of 610-6 in/ -6 out none return. These require to be dismantled and the spring removed to become a rollover stop valve

1 of 600-06 BLK -6 male/ male -6 filter.

I don't use those plastic quick connect fitting mate.
Go to your local boat retailers and buy one set Chrysler or Yamaha or Suzuki fuel tank connectors. Their S/Steel with an appropriate hose barb (8mm or 5/16) or bigger.
They will handle a good dropping and wont bend in the heat.
The filters are serviceable not throw out. Clean and flush by the side of the road as long as its fitted downstream of the tap and upstream of the quick connect. Turn off the tap, Undo the quick connect. Unscrew the end of the filter tip out the worst, turn the tap on and of and flush the filter the reconnect and make good your escape.

Thank you Chris

I'll see how I go. The tank arrived and it fits perfectly on the rear seat. Looks like I could just strap it down and it will not go anywhere, otherwise, I will manufacture brackets and bolt it onto the bike.

Will see how I go.
 

Vlad

Premier Member
#24
Chris makes a good point about the bulk head nuts they are large, I modified an in line nut to over come this and can show you if space is a problem. I used a threaded elbow as the bulk head fitting to save a little space but they do sit proud. If it comes to it ,once the pump is removed it's a simple matter to drill the tank ,access is a breeze then,it just come down to making sure the seat will fit. I haven't seen the pump plate drilled and tapped but I have seen them glued with fuel resistant epoxy, not sure if I like that ,but they do sit flatter. If your going with nuts and bolts ,so to speak ,they have a sealing washer on both sides of whatever you put the bulkhead into, may be in issue with that arrangement immediately under the pump plate.
 

Gatey

Premier Member
IBA Member
#25
Glad you picked my point up Vlad. BH fittings can be cantankeriouse if the surface site is not dead flat. Sure the TANK skin can deform to take some shape...but that spot weld brakes got me worried.

Hers a space finder option to really get a handle on just how much room exists in the desired plumbing location under the seat.
Frans get some good fresh putty. I know your building so maybe you have some in the shed.
Cut and form a 50x50x50mm block.
Place this block on the pump plate at the point you think the fittings will be going in. Even mark the spot before hand in an X&Y grid.
Put the seat back on and take particular note of its going home path so you dont get a false indicatior..
Now SIT on the seat and sqiurm round a tad and stand the bike of the side stand and just do normal operational shit from the seat.
Now Take the seat of carefully and take a look at the putty for tell tails and measure the depth with the barb on your verniers at both extremes of imprint depth.
Chances are youll have room for either fitting type But my bet is that a banjo will buy you 16 or 17 mm at fitup.
If you can go dig deep in the old FR and you should find some seat mount picturs of bikes that just used straps.
Pete,Ox had a very neat foam /strap rig on the Blackbirdfor is Jaz tank
 

Fransvdm

Premier Member
#27
Another thought that I have is that if I open the tap to fill the tank while riding, would there not be an air ( or lack of) issue to replace the fuel in the auxiliary tank?

I want to fit the tank to have the option to remove if I want to.
 

OX-34

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#28
Frans, if you are using an aux tank with an inline tap, then both the aux and the main need a vent line. The CTX already has one, so ignore it. The aux tank in your pic has a fitting on top - that is the vent. Run some fuel hose from that fitting down behind the rear tyre - add a filter in that line to catch dirty air coming into the aux.
 

Fransvdm

Premier Member
#29
Frans, if you are using an aux tank with an inline tap, then both the aux and the main need a vent line. The CTX already has one, so ignore it. The aux tank in your pic has a fitting on top - that is the vent. Run some fuel hose from that fitting down behind the rear tyre - add a filter in that line to catch dirty air coming into the aux.
Thank you Peter.
 

Gatey

Premier Member
IBA Member
#39
Im interested in the thinking behind the bag covering the tank thing. What is the motivation other than getting a couple of usable pockets on board.
This question is prompted by some comment about disgiusing the tank...and my first thought is why?
Now Im obviously posting in the context of Australia but I do rememebr years back plenty of comment about hiding the tank.
So I can only think you guys are after the extra pockets. I've had three bike snow with AuxTanks, been pulled up for randoms a few times on all these bikes and never had any negatives as have others.
Can you guys shed some light.
Love that bike Vlad going places even when its on the side stand...cool
 

Fransvdm

Premier Member
#40
Gatey, the side pockets come in handy since the CTX cannot cope with a tank bag.
The tank in the bag looks more natural, and the bag has hooks for wet gloves to dry out or strapping down swag etc.
My tank is not a permanent fixture to the bike.