Homeward bound Day 1 (Friday June 22, 2018 Day 10)
With no set plan for the day I slept in until 0600. The condition of the coffee pot and the condiments almost drove me to pull my stove from my pack and make my own coffee – but since my stove was in my top-box outside – I made do with basically black water (which I hoped was from the old coffee grounds and not the old pipes). I pulled out my laptop (finally felt justified lugging the old heavy Dell all this time) to review my planned route and possible contingencies. The WiFi was incredibly slow. Reminded me of the 56K modem days where pages loaded one line at a time. I was able to take a shower before My Maps in Google loaded/displayed. Knowing my first goal was to see the Salmon Glacier – I tried pulling up details regarding the road leading out of Hyder opposite the way I entered. From previous research; I knew it should be a short ride of approximately 25 miles to the lookout.
While waiting for the pages to load; I went outside to give the bike a quick assessment. I noted my air pressure was a little low; but more disturbingly – the rear tire was wearing at a much faster rate than anticipated. Research on the experience of others as well as my own experience indicated I should get at least 12,000 miles out of the rear tire with plenty of safety margin. Unfortunately, while I have got more than 12,000 miles out of the rear before; it was never all on one single ride. What I failed to appreciate is the accelerated wear of continuous use for long hours each day on a fully loaded bike. Last year Shelly and I took a 6,000 mile trip on a new set of the same tires. Aside from the 30 hours and 1,500 miles rode during the rally – the rest of the days were shorter and at a much more leisurely pace. When we got back home – the rear tire looked practically new with minimal wear; however, after just over 8,000 miles this rear tire was showing significantly more wear and was a concern because my planned route back was nearly 4,000 miles home taking a bigger loop through Oregon, Idaho and Nevada.
A quick check of the computer and the page was still loading (seriously). I went back outside and pulled out my mini compressor to adjust tire pressure (I wouldn’t have done this had I a little more information on road conditions to the Salmon Glacier). I hooked up the compressor and pushed the start button – the motor barely kicked over before shutting down. I tried the other auxiliary power socket and same thing occurred. I must have been distracted by the computer or maybe the Wi-Fi was slowing my brain down because my assessment of the situation was an internal component of the compressor failed. It seemed a reasonable assumption. I chastised myself for not checking the compressor before leaving home. I made the common mistake of assuming since the compressor worked fine the last time I used it to fix a flat 2 years ago during a Bun Burner Gold ride – it must be okay. What didn’t click was the last time I used it I was riding a Kawasaki Concurs with a different type of auxiliary plug than what I wired on the BMW. I’m sure most of you already know what took a couple of days to occur to me.
I went ahead and repacked the compressor (I have no explanation why would I repack a piece of equipment that I thought was broke and take up valuable space and weight if not useful – other than I hate throwing anything away). I checked the computer again – page load error! About that time, Michelle stopped at my room since I had the door open and was back and forth to the bike. She inquired if I was staying another night since I had indicated I might stay 2 nights at check-in and would decide in the morning. While I was tempted to stay; (and it was clear the business was needed) the lack of Wi-Fi was a little frustrating. It was looking like I had two options for the ride home i.e. 1) take a more direct route thereby shaving about 1,500 miles off the ride; or 2) arranging for a rear tire replacement if I wanted to stick with the original planned route.
With no cell service or Wi-Fi; I concluded another night at the Sealaska would not be productive. I reluctantly let Michelle know I would not be staying and would be out of the room before check-out. I was actually a little sad about this because I don’t think it is even fair to say the business owners of Hyder are barely hanging on. Many have already closed and it appears the rest are not far from doing the same. I think this is a beautiful area to live; but with limited economic prospects currently. As a Libertarian, Hyder is Paradise with few taxes and a law enforcement presence about once or twice a year. There were a lot of motorcyclist coming and going; but it appeared nearly all were staying in motels in Stewart.
I could tell Michelle was disappointed I was not staying another night. I promised I would return and bring my Michelle (Shelly) with whom she had spoken with several times yesterday prior to my arrival. I asked about directions to the Salmon Glacier and she kept it fairly general by saying it was only 20-25 miles out of town – nothing about road conditions.
I packed up the bike and was moving shortly before 11am. I needed fuel which required a ride to Stewart and a border crossing. Fortunately the crossing was not busy. I pulled up and stopped where designated. A very nice Canadian Border Security Officer came out, looked at my passport and asked a few questions before waving me through. It only took a few minutes to fuel up in Stewart before crossing back in the U.S. ( I wonder if Trump knows we have a completely unguarded border up here – while a wall is definitely not necessary – some paved roads would be nice). I rode back through Hyder and waved to the same two guys sitting in the screened pavilion at Camp-Run-a-Muck as yesterday. The wilderness bordering both sides of the road was extraordinary. I knew from previous research the Salmon Glacier is actually in Canada so I had another border crossing at some point. What I was not aware was how quickly tarmac changed to gravel a few miles out of Hyder. I guess it actually was a good thing I did not add more air to my tires earlier as planned. In fact – if I had a working compressor; I would have stopped and let more air out.
The road started out fairly hard packed; but got progressively more rutted as I went along. My perspective of the road was from being on a fully loaded adventure category bike (700+lbs bike, gear and rider combined) with worn street tires. Several kilometers in I finally see a truck driving towards me in the opposite direction. I hold up my hand as we almost pass and the guy mistook my gesture as a wave; as he waved back and continued. However, when he saw me stop – he kindly reversed back to where I was waiting. He confirmed I was on the right road for the Salmon Glacier and indicated there were look-out opportunities at kilometer 24 and 36; and pointed out little orange signs high up on trees along the road which marked the kilometers.
Armed with the knowledge I was on the right road and how many kilometers I needed to travel – I confidently upshifted to third gear. It didn’t take long before I was back in second gear to pick my way through the ruts though. Standing was required to allow the bike to move without compounding from sitting. It seemed to take forever (which it does when traveling less than 20 mph); but I eventually made it to the first lookout providing a view of the Glacier tail. There were a few other people present that road up in trucks and dual purpose bikes. The view was spectacular and it was great to chat with other tourists for a little while. I delayed as long as I could before getting back on the bike and continuing up the road (seriously – did I actually think I could have tackled the CDT loaded like this?) another 5-6 kilometers and stopped when the fog which was increasing in thickness suddenly opened up and I had a clear view of the Glacier. I couple of other riders on a pair of KLR’s were coming down the road; stopped and said this was the best view point as further up was socked in with fog. One other vehicle with a nice couple from Germany stopped and we all were connected and captivated by the awesome beauty before us.
(Above – Salmon Glacier)
It was nearing 1300 and I still did not have a solid plan for the rest of the day so I was the first of the group to start heading back down the road (plus I felt more comfortable knowing I had people behind me to assist if necessary than being the last). I had probably traveled less than 2 kilometers before rounding a corner and being confronted by a mother black bear and her two cubs less than 20 yards away in the middle of the road. Needless to say I was surprised and not nearly as prepared as I should have been. My bear spray was in my top box behind me versus the shoulder holster I intended to wear when riding through or camping in remote areas. If mom came at me; there was absolutely no way I was going to be able to get the big heavily loaded bike turned around so I sat there idling with a finger on the horn hoping if she came my way the horn might startle her enough to run away. It seemed like we watched each other for minutes; but I know it was probably less than 15 seconds (in that time the entire bear scene from The Revenant ran through my head) before she led her cubs off the road. I wasted little time getting moving and only stopped briefly at the next overlook to alert the tourist walking around.
I probably should clarify for anyone that has not rode to the Salmon Glacier – I had indicated the glacier was located in Canada and would require another border crossing which is true. However, the crossing in not monitored and considered an Honor System border crossing.
It is amazing how a little familiarity with a road can make the return so much easier. It felt like it took less than half the time to get back on tarmac. As I reached tarmac a family in a 30 foot RV was parked and looking at the road ahead. Now that I was the experienced adventurer; I felt it my duty to stop and see if I could be of assistance. The dad asked me if there was camping up ahead. I found this amusing since he was sitting in a 30ft luxury RV asking about camping. I told him I did not see any opportunities for camping in the 34 kilometers I rode and did not think it was a good idea with his low ground clearance and length to attempt the road as there were few areas big enough for him to turnaround.
My wife and daughter had requested I bring back souvenirs for them from my trip. Up to this point the only thing I had accumulated was a stack of receipts to send to the IBA certification team. While every IBA member appreciates a finely organized and complete dated business receipt; the same cannot be said for others. There are 2-3 business advertising souvenirs off of Main Street and a couple more indicating souvenirs available down a few different dirt roads. I stopped at the first and met Wes (the official or unofficial Mayor of Hyder?). We talked for several minutes about the local economy and he indicated he had absorbed the inventory of another recently closed souvenir shop and splitting proceeds. Even with the increased stock – the pickings were slim. I ended up with a handful of key chains and a few stickers. I stopped at two other shops in Hyder to spread a few dollars around; however, found the best deal on T-shirts in Stewart (3 for $15.00 Canadian).
It was now 1400 and I had to make a decision about what I would do the rest of the day. I wouldn’t have minded some time off the bike; but I also didn’t mind putting some miles behind me. The 900 miles I rode yesterday through BC took a lot of time so I thought the best strategy would be to try and break it up some and start heading back. I programmed a more direct path home in Gladys which would take me through a different border crossing in Washington and provide some other scenery than my planned route which would have had me retracing my steps all the way back to Oroville. I ditched the option of extending mileage and getting another rear tire. I figured the best option was to take the more direct route home which was still a little over 2,200 miles to ride.
I wasn’t sure how many hours or miles I had in me; but every mile rode today would be one less to ride tomorrow. I figured I might as well try for Prince George since it is approximately the half-way point back to the border.
I found myself stopping at a couple of the same places as the way up for more pictures. Those that have ridden up in the area know words alone cannot describe the beauty and feeling one has when standing before it. I know for certain this will not be my only trip to Alaska. By most standards – this would be described as a baby Alaska trip since there is so much more to see. To take a line from one of my favorite movies – Armageddon – Oscar: this is space! See this is just the beginning part of space, we haven’t’ even got to outer space yet! Now replay the same line and substitute Alaska for space and that is how I felt.
I didn’t make it to Prince George. I knew it was a bit of a stretch with the already late start and it was now going on 9pm. I stopped for fuel at a station in Vanderhoof about 30 miles before Prince George. It was a very clean establishment which seemed to only employ young adults. They were all just as cute and polite as can be. The young man insisted I let him fill my tank (even in states like Oregon – I have always filled my own tank); and for some reason (maybe it was his politeness or my fatigue) I was comfortable letting him fill the tank to the neck as instructed while I went inside for a local accommodation recommendation. I was directed to a Country Inn only minutes from the station which was very clean and priced fairly. The only issue I had was a little miscommunication between me and the clerk. His English was better than my French; but we still misunderstood the words ground level. I wanted a room on ground level (aka first floor) to make it easier unloading/loading gear; but I ended up with a room below ground level. By the time I realized this when unloading my bike – it was not worth going back and trying to switch. I think the clerk thought he was doing me a favor because when I saw him outside a little later – he asked me if the room temperature was cool enough. Evidently my sweaty appearance prompted him to try and give me a cool room. Unfortunately, I didn’t find the ground level rooms to be cool because it only had emergency escape windows which were otherwise to remain closed. I ended up propping the door open to the hallway to cool the room while I ate. At least the wifi was strong and I was able to video chat with Shelly for a while and catch her up on the day. One quick note about food – I stopped at a Subway between the station and Inn; it was the first and only meal I bought for the entire trip. Local time 2300.
I stopped keeping track of all receipts for this portion of the trip
Miles: 380 plus the ride from Hyder to Salmon Glacier and back.
To be continued..
With no set plan for the day I slept in until 0600. The condition of the coffee pot and the condiments almost drove me to pull my stove from my pack and make my own coffee – but since my stove was in my top-box outside – I made do with basically black water (which I hoped was from the old coffee grounds and not the old pipes). I pulled out my laptop (finally felt justified lugging the old heavy Dell all this time) to review my planned route and possible contingencies. The WiFi was incredibly slow. Reminded me of the 56K modem days where pages loaded one line at a time. I was able to take a shower before My Maps in Google loaded/displayed. Knowing my first goal was to see the Salmon Glacier – I tried pulling up details regarding the road leading out of Hyder opposite the way I entered. From previous research; I knew it should be a short ride of approximately 25 miles to the lookout.
While waiting for the pages to load; I went outside to give the bike a quick assessment. I noted my air pressure was a little low; but more disturbingly – the rear tire was wearing at a much faster rate than anticipated. Research on the experience of others as well as my own experience indicated I should get at least 12,000 miles out of the rear tire with plenty of safety margin. Unfortunately, while I have got more than 12,000 miles out of the rear before; it was never all on one single ride. What I failed to appreciate is the accelerated wear of continuous use for long hours each day on a fully loaded bike. Last year Shelly and I took a 6,000 mile trip on a new set of the same tires. Aside from the 30 hours and 1,500 miles rode during the rally – the rest of the days were shorter and at a much more leisurely pace. When we got back home – the rear tire looked practically new with minimal wear; however, after just over 8,000 miles this rear tire was showing significantly more wear and was a concern because my planned route back was nearly 4,000 miles home taking a bigger loop through Oregon, Idaho and Nevada.
A quick check of the computer and the page was still loading (seriously). I went back outside and pulled out my mini compressor to adjust tire pressure (I wouldn’t have done this had I a little more information on road conditions to the Salmon Glacier). I hooked up the compressor and pushed the start button – the motor barely kicked over before shutting down. I tried the other auxiliary power socket and same thing occurred. I must have been distracted by the computer or maybe the Wi-Fi was slowing my brain down because my assessment of the situation was an internal component of the compressor failed. It seemed a reasonable assumption. I chastised myself for not checking the compressor before leaving home. I made the common mistake of assuming since the compressor worked fine the last time I used it to fix a flat 2 years ago during a Bun Burner Gold ride – it must be okay. What didn’t click was the last time I used it I was riding a Kawasaki Concurs with a different type of auxiliary plug than what I wired on the BMW. I’m sure most of you already know what took a couple of days to occur to me.
I went ahead and repacked the compressor (I have no explanation why would I repack a piece of equipment that I thought was broke and take up valuable space and weight if not useful – other than I hate throwing anything away). I checked the computer again – page load error! About that time, Michelle stopped at my room since I had the door open and was back and forth to the bike. She inquired if I was staying another night since I had indicated I might stay 2 nights at check-in and would decide in the morning. While I was tempted to stay; (and it was clear the business was needed) the lack of Wi-Fi was a little frustrating. It was looking like I had two options for the ride home i.e. 1) take a more direct route thereby shaving about 1,500 miles off the ride; or 2) arranging for a rear tire replacement if I wanted to stick with the original planned route.
With no cell service or Wi-Fi; I concluded another night at the Sealaska would not be productive. I reluctantly let Michelle know I would not be staying and would be out of the room before check-out. I was actually a little sad about this because I don’t think it is even fair to say the business owners of Hyder are barely hanging on. Many have already closed and it appears the rest are not far from doing the same. I think this is a beautiful area to live; but with limited economic prospects currently. As a Libertarian, Hyder is Paradise with few taxes and a law enforcement presence about once or twice a year. There were a lot of motorcyclist coming and going; but it appeared nearly all were staying in motels in Stewart.
I could tell Michelle was disappointed I was not staying another night. I promised I would return and bring my Michelle (Shelly) with whom she had spoken with several times yesterday prior to my arrival. I asked about directions to the Salmon Glacier and she kept it fairly general by saying it was only 20-25 miles out of town – nothing about road conditions.
I packed up the bike and was moving shortly before 11am. I needed fuel which required a ride to Stewart and a border crossing. Fortunately the crossing was not busy. I pulled up and stopped where designated. A very nice Canadian Border Security Officer came out, looked at my passport and asked a few questions before waving me through. It only took a few minutes to fuel up in Stewart before crossing back in the U.S. ( I wonder if Trump knows we have a completely unguarded border up here – while a wall is definitely not necessary – some paved roads would be nice). I rode back through Hyder and waved to the same two guys sitting in the screened pavilion at Camp-Run-a-Muck as yesterday. The wilderness bordering both sides of the road was extraordinary. I knew from previous research the Salmon Glacier is actually in Canada so I had another border crossing at some point. What I was not aware was how quickly tarmac changed to gravel a few miles out of Hyder. I guess it actually was a good thing I did not add more air to my tires earlier as planned. In fact – if I had a working compressor; I would have stopped and let more air out.
The road started out fairly hard packed; but got progressively more rutted as I went along. My perspective of the road was from being on a fully loaded adventure category bike (700+lbs bike, gear and rider combined) with worn street tires. Several kilometers in I finally see a truck driving towards me in the opposite direction. I hold up my hand as we almost pass and the guy mistook my gesture as a wave; as he waved back and continued. However, when he saw me stop – he kindly reversed back to where I was waiting. He confirmed I was on the right road for the Salmon Glacier and indicated there were look-out opportunities at kilometer 24 and 36; and pointed out little orange signs high up on trees along the road which marked the kilometers.
Armed with the knowledge I was on the right road and how many kilometers I needed to travel – I confidently upshifted to third gear. It didn’t take long before I was back in second gear to pick my way through the ruts though. Standing was required to allow the bike to move without compounding from sitting. It seemed to take forever (which it does when traveling less than 20 mph); but I eventually made it to the first lookout providing a view of the Glacier tail. There were a few other people present that road up in trucks and dual purpose bikes. The view was spectacular and it was great to chat with other tourists for a little while. I delayed as long as I could before getting back on the bike and continuing up the road (seriously – did I actually think I could have tackled the CDT loaded like this?) another 5-6 kilometers and stopped when the fog which was increasing in thickness suddenly opened up and I had a clear view of the Glacier. I couple of other riders on a pair of KLR’s were coming down the road; stopped and said this was the best view point as further up was socked in with fog. One other vehicle with a nice couple from Germany stopped and we all were connected and captivated by the awesome beauty before us.
(Above – Salmon Glacier)
It was nearing 1300 and I still did not have a solid plan for the rest of the day so I was the first of the group to start heading back down the road (plus I felt more comfortable knowing I had people behind me to assist if necessary than being the last). I had probably traveled less than 2 kilometers before rounding a corner and being confronted by a mother black bear and her two cubs less than 20 yards away in the middle of the road. Needless to say I was surprised and not nearly as prepared as I should have been. My bear spray was in my top box behind me versus the shoulder holster I intended to wear when riding through or camping in remote areas. If mom came at me; there was absolutely no way I was going to be able to get the big heavily loaded bike turned around so I sat there idling with a finger on the horn hoping if she came my way the horn might startle her enough to run away. It seemed like we watched each other for minutes; but I know it was probably less than 15 seconds (in that time the entire bear scene from The Revenant ran through my head) before she led her cubs off the road. I wasted little time getting moving and only stopped briefly at the next overlook to alert the tourist walking around.
I probably should clarify for anyone that has not rode to the Salmon Glacier – I had indicated the glacier was located in Canada and would require another border crossing which is true. However, the crossing in not monitored and considered an Honor System border crossing.
It is amazing how a little familiarity with a road can make the return so much easier. It felt like it took less than half the time to get back on tarmac. As I reached tarmac a family in a 30 foot RV was parked and looking at the road ahead. Now that I was the experienced adventurer; I felt it my duty to stop and see if I could be of assistance. The dad asked me if there was camping up ahead. I found this amusing since he was sitting in a 30ft luxury RV asking about camping. I told him I did not see any opportunities for camping in the 34 kilometers I rode and did not think it was a good idea with his low ground clearance and length to attempt the road as there were few areas big enough for him to turnaround.
My wife and daughter had requested I bring back souvenirs for them from my trip. Up to this point the only thing I had accumulated was a stack of receipts to send to the IBA certification team. While every IBA member appreciates a finely organized and complete dated business receipt; the same cannot be said for others. There are 2-3 business advertising souvenirs off of Main Street and a couple more indicating souvenirs available down a few different dirt roads. I stopped at the first and met Wes (the official or unofficial Mayor of Hyder?). We talked for several minutes about the local economy and he indicated he had absorbed the inventory of another recently closed souvenir shop and splitting proceeds. Even with the increased stock – the pickings were slim. I ended up with a handful of key chains and a few stickers. I stopped at two other shops in Hyder to spread a few dollars around; however, found the best deal on T-shirts in Stewart (3 for $15.00 Canadian).
It was now 1400 and I had to make a decision about what I would do the rest of the day. I wouldn’t have minded some time off the bike; but I also didn’t mind putting some miles behind me. The 900 miles I rode yesterday through BC took a lot of time so I thought the best strategy would be to try and break it up some and start heading back. I programmed a more direct path home in Gladys which would take me through a different border crossing in Washington and provide some other scenery than my planned route which would have had me retracing my steps all the way back to Oroville. I ditched the option of extending mileage and getting another rear tire. I figured the best option was to take the more direct route home which was still a little over 2,200 miles to ride.
I wasn’t sure how many hours or miles I had in me; but every mile rode today would be one less to ride tomorrow. I figured I might as well try for Prince George since it is approximately the half-way point back to the border.
I found myself stopping at a couple of the same places as the way up for more pictures. Those that have ridden up in the area know words alone cannot describe the beauty and feeling one has when standing before it. I know for certain this will not be my only trip to Alaska. By most standards – this would be described as a baby Alaska trip since there is so much more to see. To take a line from one of my favorite movies – Armageddon – Oscar: this is space! See this is just the beginning part of space, we haven’t’ even got to outer space yet! Now replay the same line and substitute Alaska for space and that is how I felt.
I didn’t make it to Prince George. I knew it was a bit of a stretch with the already late start and it was now going on 9pm. I stopped for fuel at a station in Vanderhoof about 30 miles before Prince George. It was a very clean establishment which seemed to only employ young adults. They were all just as cute and polite as can be. The young man insisted I let him fill my tank (even in states like Oregon – I have always filled my own tank); and for some reason (maybe it was his politeness or my fatigue) I was comfortable letting him fill the tank to the neck as instructed while I went inside for a local accommodation recommendation. I was directed to a Country Inn only minutes from the station which was very clean and priced fairly. The only issue I had was a little miscommunication between me and the clerk. His English was better than my French; but we still misunderstood the words ground level. I wanted a room on ground level (aka first floor) to make it easier unloading/loading gear; but I ended up with a room below ground level. By the time I realized this when unloading my bike – it was not worth going back and trying to switch. I think the clerk thought he was doing me a favor because when I saw him outside a little later – he asked me if the room temperature was cool enough. Evidently my sweaty appearance prompted him to try and give me a cool room. Unfortunately, I didn’t find the ground level rooms to be cool because it only had emergency escape windows which were otherwise to remain closed. I ended up propping the door open to the hallway to cool the room while I ate. At least the wifi was strong and I was able to video chat with Shelly for a while and catch her up on the day. One quick note about food – I stopped at a Subway between the station and Inn; it was the first and only meal I bought for the entire trip. Local time 2300.
I stopped keeping track of all receipts for this portion of the trip
Miles: 380 plus the ride from Hyder to Salmon Glacier and back.
To be continued..