Chain oilers

keithu

Premier Member
IBA Member
IBR Finisher
#21
So far the Scott Oiler seems to be working well, but the real test will be when the rainy season arrives in October. I've always been pretty lazy about chain maintenance and as a result my chain developed rust on a couple of occasions last year. My intention is that the Scott Oiler lets me continue to be lazy.
 

CB650F

Premier Member
#22
I recently took a 2200 mile motorcycle trip with my nephew. We got rained on a few times. The Scott Oiler seemed to do well and keep my chain oiled through the rain. The chain always looked like it had fresh oil on it when we stopped. I suspect yours will do as well, but keep us updated on your results.
 
#23
I used a ScottOiler eSystem on my BMW S1000XR for about 25k miles in 6 months and then decided to dump it in the trash. It was too finicky between getting clogged and staying properly aligned to the chain. Especially after doing unpaved roads it would prove useless. When it did work, it just created a big mess around the front sprocket. No issues with fling off at the rear but the front was one big mess. When the main reservoir started leaking... time to dump this in the trash. BTW service/warranty on ScottOiler in US was non-existent...
 

EricV

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#25
Has anyone tried the Moto Briiz oiler? It looks cheap, simple, and effective.

Motobriiz
No experience with that product. It looks like an industrial oil separator that they have added a couple of fittings along with some tubing and a sheet of industrial oil absorbent mat. (I was a machinist for ~25 years and used these every day.) I dislike their video style and animation and their "install" is a bit of a joke. Lay it under the seat and run some tubing. To me, it looks cheesy and over priced for what you're getting. It's about $10 in parts, if I'm being generous. And they don't seem to understand gravity, claiming the oil in the hose running down to the chain is going to be magically sucked back to the reservoir when you stop... It's going to run down the hose and make a mess. They put an air hole at the top which will exactly allow the oil in the tube to drain down, rather than be trapped by a vacuum until more air pressure is applied from the other end.

Granted, I am NOT a fan of automatic oilers that run all the time. I don't see that as a plus, but an almost guarantee of over lubing the chain unless it's backed off so far that you're under lubing when you need it. I'd much rather be responsible for when it gets oiled and be able to oil it as needed, on the fly.
 

CB650F

Premier Member
#26
Has anyone tried the Moto Briiz oiler? It looks cheap, simple, and effective.

Motobriiz
I looked at a few YouTube videos from that company. Comments were turned off, which is a big red flag for me. The physics described in the videos is wrong. Based on my brief time researching it, I wouldn't recommend such a product.
 

saphena

IBAUK Webmaster
Staff member
Premier Member
IBA Member
#27
I have a Tutoro automatic oiler and it works a treat. One advantage over the Scott system is that the installation is entirely non-intrusive. Fit the whole system yourself without cutting into any existing systems. The whole thing is fitted literally with a handful of cable ties. 88,000 miles so far, still a happy user.
 

keithu

Premier Member
IBA Member
IBR Finisher
#28
One advantage over the Scott system is that the installation is entirely non-intrusive. Fit the whole system yourself without cutting into any existing systems.
The Scott vSystem is also non-intrusive. It simply plugs into a throttle body vacuum port that is already present on most modern motorcycles. It's the same port where you connect a manometer for throttle body syncs. You don't have to cut into anything, you just remove the rubber cap and plug in the vacuum tube. Everything else is zip ties.
 
#29
I run a Pro Oiler which is GPS satellite controlled. Nice, since it automatically adjusts flow for Speed/distance w/manual over ride if necessary. Coming from a shaft drive I found the chain a PITA but with the oiler it is tolerable. I ran it in 2017 after struggling with chain maintenance in 2015 and it worked fine.
 

JohnR

Mr. QR code
IBA Member
#30
May I throw my spanner in the works with a couple of questions.

1) How do you guys determine drive chain wear?
2) How do you guys determine when a drive chain needs replacing?
3) How often do you guys inspect your drive chains and do you inspect every link, plate, pin, roller and X/O ring?
 

CB650F

Premier Member
#31
1) I base drive chain wear on stretch. As the chain wears, it will "stretch", requiring adjustments to stay in spec. I put stretch in quote because the chain doesn't actually stretch. Its overall length becomes longer due to wear between components, not due to any pins bending or plates becoming longer. Yes it's a bit nit picky, but stretch is not the correct word for what's actually happening.

2) Chains need to be replaced when links start to freeze up, or when the chain "stretches" beyond spec. Mechanical damage to the chain can also require replacement, or repair. I also replace the chain if I replace a sprocket due to wear.

3) I give it a quick look over on the weekends. I put it up on the stand and spin the rear wheel while feeling the chain for any oddities. Once a month (roughly) I give it a good inspection. I look at all the links and make sure they move freely. I also make sure there aren't any missing rings. I also do this kind of inspection before long trips. You can easily see the plates, pins, and rollers while looking at rings. They are all basically in the same place and it doesn't take long.
 

Marc11

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#32
May I throw my spanner in the works with a couple of questions.

1) How do you guys determine drive chain wear?
2) How do you guys determine when a drive chain needs replacing?
3) How often do you guys inspect your drive chains and do you inspect every link, plate, pin, roller and X/O ring?
All of this clearly spelled out in all chain driven bikes owners manual and chain websites. There isn't much science or hard work to maintaining or replacing chains and sprockets really.

The real issue is carrying extra "stuff" on multiple thousand rides, even if you start with a new chain and sprockets set. You'll need tools, measuring device and lubricant to maintain, adjust and in some cases repair/replace worn chains and sprockets as well as perhaps even spare parts. That all takes space and weight.
 

keithu

Premier Member
IBA Member
IBR Finisher
#33
May I throw my spanner in the works with a couple of questions.

1) How do you guys determine drive chain wear?
2) How do you guys determine when a drive chain needs replacing?
3) How often do you guys inspect your drive chains and do you inspect every link, plate, pin, roller and X/O ring?
1) and 2) are really the same question, I think: The chain needs to be replaced when links are frozen, if the chain can be easily pulled away from the rear sprocket, or if significant tight spots develop that make it difficult to properly adjust tension. I may also replace chains proactively before a long ride, much as one might do with tires. I recently replaced the chain on my FJ-09 even though it only had 15k miles and didn't have any serious problems. But I was anticipating riding 8-10k miles in connection with Butt Lite X and thought it best to start with a fresh chain.

3) Not very often. I give it a glance once a week or so, and maybe a quick kick to check tension. I can usually tell when the chain is loose just by the feel of driveline lash while riding. Before I got my ScottOiler I would oil the chain with 80W gear oil monthly in the summer, and weekly in the winter to prevent rain-induced corrosion. I rarely if ever inspect every link, plate, pin, etc. The nice thing about gear oil - and, I'm finding, the ScottOiler lube - is that nothing sticks to it so it is never really necessary to "clean" the chain.
 

Baxter

Well-Known Member
#34
I have a Tutoro automatic oiler and it works a treat. One advantage over the Scott system is that the installation is entirely non-intrusive. Fit the whole system yourself without cutting into any existing systems. The whole thing is fitted literally with a handful of cable ties. 88,000 miles so far, still a happy user.
I'm glad that you have liked the Tutoro. I considered that oiler, but nobody I knew had used it so I went with the Scottoiler based on friends' recommendations.