Looking for knowledgeable LC RT peeps...

BMW RT Pilot

BMW RT Pilot

Premier Member
#1
#1
OK, so despite some excellent online videos, the service DVD, and the required specialty tools, I just can't seem to get the bike running after pulling the cams when adjusting the valve clearances. I am convinced I am overlooking something obvious (and yes, the plugs and all seals are in and there is gas in the tank). I am not taking it to the local shop in Nashville because the owner is a complete turd and that leaves me options in Chattanooga or Knoxville, 2 and 3 hours away, respectively, which also means renting a trailer.

I spent over $500 for those tools because the local shop wanted over $500 just to do an inspection...not even including any replacement, etc.!!...and now the labor rate went up $20/hour since that quote from last year. I did a googly search on such people but the only person I found has more than 2 weeks' worth of work and he doesn't make housecalls.

So, I am looking for someone local to me (Mid TN, around Nashville), who is a gearhead and has done this before and can travel to my place. Beverage and food of choice plus good 'ol hard cash involved.

I guess it would help to tell y'all that I have a 2016 RT.

I am enclosing some pictures I took of the cam positions with the alignment pin locking the engine, so supposedly TDC. Timing is good. Camshaft sensor is aligned with the pickup.

TIA
 

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BMW RT Pilot

BMW RT Pilot

Premier Member
#7
#7
I followed the manual to the letter but the manual doesn't state that after you reinstall the left set of cams and time them, then to rotate the engine 180 degrees and then do the same for the right.

I mean, that's something I should've picked-up on right off the bat, since once you've checked the valve clearances on one side, you need to rotate the crank to put the cams on the other side in the correct position.

Following the service DVD doesn't mention this and instead it instructs the person to install both sets of cams in the same orientation.

I was thinking about this while sulking in bed this morning and a call from BoxFlyer confirmed it. I rechecked the left side to make sure things were OK (they were), then I went about and changed the right. It fired up and I rode about 20 miles.

It's been a weird 12K service...but it's over. Time for some serious riding.
 
BMW RT Pilot

BMW RT Pilot

Premier Member
#9
#9
As a follow-up to my earlier explanation, I believe the reason why I didn't do that second rotation is that this is the first time I've performed this procedure and I was following the book to the letter and I overlooked that obvious step (the second rotation) because the manual didn't tell me to do so.

I guess the bright side to all of this is that I did it so many times that I can do both sides lickity-split. I don't even have to reference the torque numbers either. :)

In related news, it seems to me that the bike runs just a little bit better- a bit smoother, a slightly different sound at startup and idle (definitely quieter), and smoother when revving it up.
 
BMW RT Pilot

BMW RT Pilot

Premier Member
#11
#11
Sportsterpaul said:
Good on you, and on top of it all you kept some extra cash in your own pocket, a win, win!
Click to expand...
Thanks. As I may have mentioned earlier, the dealer was quoting over $500 for the 12K service and I don't believe that included actually changing the shims, and you can imagine how much higher that bill would be, especially at $130 an hour! I spent $520 for the specialty tools because, well, what guy doesn't like having new, shiny tools in the box? :)
 
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