Power Distribution


Premier Member
Over the years I’ve owned my Triumph Trophy SE I have added INNOV K2, extra flashing hazard lights and mobile phone charger. Each time expediently running wires hither and thither with no regard to neatness. I saw a Gold Wing photo of how it should be done D14BF155-0FBA-428C-8FFF-68115ADF318A.jpeg
I have two questions:
Firstly which power distribution hub should I use and secondly is there anyone who could do the work for me as I’m incompetent.

Ian M

Well-Known Member
I use a ROWE PDM60 - not sure they are available anymore – I got it from Nippy Normans years ago
There’s denali, innovv

They fit stuff, they’re in Cambridgeshire but i guess any competent mate will do it it’s not hard – I fitted one.


IBA Member
That's OTT - Not one but two fuse boxes that need to be set up and maintained by an app on your mobile phone via a Bluetooth connection, seriously? Besides which you need to run the positive and ground cable back to the box, that's twice as much cable clutter as you need. A better install would run the positives back to the box and the grounds to a chassis grounding point adjacent to the where the power is required, which is how the factory wiring is run. My preference is to make up an accessory loom, its not that difficult, requiring minimal skills and can be easily extended as and when additional power feeds are required. If a picture speaks a thousand words here's a crude image of how I do it, less the self amalgamating loom tape.

accessory circuit.JPG


Premier Member
IBR Finisher
There are a lot of products and methods out there. I've used Eastern Beaver PC-8 with excellent results and found the plug and play version for the Yamaha Super Ten to be very nice and simple to use. I've also run Fuzeblock units, used JohnR's methods and recently went with a Healtech Thunderbox. The Thunderbox has no fuses, is all potted electronics and uses a clamp style design for the wire inputs, so strip a bit at the end of the wire and insert, flip the tab back down and you're done. No soldering, no crimping, no other connectors to fuss with and no tools to install or remove a farkle from the unit. Auto reset if it detects a short, if it happens again, it cuts it out of the system for safety. Small and easy to tuck away as well. I ordered direct from the manufacturer in Hungary and received it in only a few days. No customs fees/duty for motorcycle parts in the US, so no surprises on the cost, just the price I paid online for the unit and a flat $25 shipping charge.

You can opt for 4 or 8 circuit versions with a price difference. this is the 4 circuit version. Black wire is ground, green is 12v. White is an optional switched power connection that will shut everything down with the key. If you leave the white wire unconnected, the automatic cycle is default. The unit goes through a short learning cycle when first powered up and after that it knows when the engine is running and only powers your circuits when the engine is running, and powers everything down a few seconds after you shut the engine down. Since I sometimes desire to poke my GPS with the key on, engine off, I connected the white wire to a OE switched source.

The orange tabs lift up to allow wire insertion/removal.


IBA Member
That'll confuse the snot out of Honda owners, since their entire electrical systems have green ground wires. :p
I think you'll find Honda use green ground cabling for connections to chassis ground and black ground cabling for direct connections to the battery negative terminal. There are some exceptions including connectons to the radiator fan, brake light switches, horn, switch gear etc