R1200GSW Fuel Cell Installation

#1
I recently completed installation of a fuel cell, built by Maple Farkles, on my 2015 R1200GSW. This is how I completed fuel-line install which appears to be working well and it allows me to remove the cell in ~15 minutes when I do choose to allow a pillion. I am not including the fuel-cell bracket and cell installation images which varies by personal preference; Mike ships them with instructions specific to your installation-preference/option(s). Feedback and/or recommendations for change/adjustment are requested.

This is available as a PDF as well

NOTE: hose clamps were installed at all connections after the photos were taken.

1. Drill 3/4" hole in the bottom, rear, right side of the existing fuel tank and install the bulkhead fitting.


2. Put a piece of mastic tape to protect the frame near the close fitting bulkhead elbow and route the fuel line under the tank to the left side of the bike. NOTE: due to clearance, I have reversed the bulkhead fitting and added an additional gasket(similar to the one visible in the image), flat washer (protects the gasket from the lock washer) and lock washer on the inside of the tank.

3. Route the fuel line under the frame, and place the quick disconnect, on the left side and up to where it will attach to the fuel cell. (this will be hidden in a future step)

4. Install the petcock to the newly routed fuel line and attach the breather hose to the filler neck. NOTE: the fuel breather line is zip tied to my saddlebag rack such that it will discharge behind the rear-wheel rather than on the side as the following two images display; they were taken before that routing was completed.

5. Install a left side Touratech cover to hide the quick disconnect assembly.

6. Install a right Touratech cover to balance and verify that nothing leaks and all works as expected.
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Last edited:

mess533

Ron Messick, Independence, MO IBA#598
Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#2
Great fit & finish! Mike at MapleFarkles looks to invest a lot of time into his design. Love the shelf! I'm guessing the filler neck is on the very end? Are those ClearWater lights up front? I'm in the market and those seem to be the go to light. Again, Great job!
 
#3
Great fit & finish! Mike at MapleFarkles looks to invest a lot of time into his design. Love the shelf! I'm guessing the filler neck is on the very end? Are those ClearWater lights up front? I'm in the market and those seem to be the go to light. Again, Great job!
The filler neck is back right and extends a bit higher than the tank as I also had pelican brief clips mounted so I can slide a pelican roller brief on top.

Yes, those are ClearWater Glendas tied into the horn so when I hit my horn they go to full power and flash my high-beam too. I'm not happy with the wonder wheel integration, as it doesn't seem to let me change intensity on the fly but otherwise I like the lights a lot. One thing to note is that I had BMW factory driving lights, which I gave to a fellow rider, that I wish I had kept because they had a really nice wide narrow beam which would have augmented the Glenda's giving me a better overall light fill... oh well, my friend that got the factory lights from me loves them so I'll take the good karm.
 
#4
Mine was just installed this last week. Mounted to the Clutch side of the bike, only 1 place it fit. Mine was on a 2016 R1200GSA WC. Should have had the same tank as a RT. However, my tank was not plastic.

I had MAX BMW do the work, since those gas tanks are expensive. The drilled the hole and talked with Mike for assistance. Great assistance from Mike!!!

Will try to get a picture of the routing. It is direct from full cell down the left side to the tank. A run of about 18-24 inches.

John
 
#6
I know this is a very old post but i am getting ready to do this to me 2018 R1200GSA and have wondered how it all held up. Any issues with leaking ?
 

Marc11

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#8
Made my move from the vent line feed to a proper tank gravity set up. Have to say I can see why the vent mod killed my pump, the size of the hole in the actual tank for the vent is nothing more than a pin hole.

Tight fit, doesn't look like there is space but there is. Also the fuel line will pole right out behind the body panel once installed.

Only snag I had was I wanted to use a nylon washer between the lock washer and the tank so the lock washer would not damage the tank liner, due to shape of tank had to do some trimming of washer.

Leak test tomorrow. Pics in the link.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BWV9r7qipnmwX3u3A
 

Martin Little

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#9
Made my move from the vent line feed to a proper tank gravity set up. Have to say I can see why the vent mod killed my pump, the size of the hole in the actual tank for the vent is nothing more than a pin hole.

Tight fit, doesn't look like there is space but there is. Also the fuel line will pole right out behind the body panel once installed.

Only snag I had was I wanted to use a nylon washer between the lock washer and the tank so the lock washer would not damage the tank liner, due to shape of tank had to do some trimming of washer.

Leak test tomorrow. Pics in the link.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BWV9r7qipnmwX3u3A
Looks good Marc,

Looking forward to seeing the results of the leak test
 

Marc11

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#10
Well first test failed, fuel leaked right away. Pulled it apart and inspected oring, didn't look too great so swapped it for a slightly thicker Vinton oring. Been about an hour, no leaks. Going to wait a bit more and if no leaks and no smell, I'm calling it good.
 
#13
I would use JB Weld or a good epoxy to seal that fuel line tap from the tank. Also, use "Rein" brand fuel line clamps. Screw type used on MB Diesel fuel lines and won't damage the rubber hose.
 

Marc11

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#14
Thanks for the suggestion I'm using smooth fuel injection clamps for all but the one at the tank due to space. I'm also using extra thick heavy duty marine grade fuel line.

As for the JB weld, I've seen this recommended before but I've run this set up leak free on my K16 for 50k miles and know two others with a combined 200k leak free miles with this set up, so I'm not sure the JB weld is really needed.