Tapping the tank on a Gen 6 Goldwing

RobG4

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#1
For the '23 IBR I ran my aux fuel line to the top plate of the fuel pump on my 2018 Goldwing. I had to replace the fuel pump so I need to drill for the bulkhead fitting again. I'm going to tap the actual tank this time instead of going through the fuel pump top plate. I've seen folks put the bulkhead fitting in the bottom left corner of the tank and also the top left near the filler neck.
Aux tank is gravity fed, and I think either spot will work.

Pro's and cons to both? Pics of either would be great. Thannks
 

rneal55555

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#2
If you go in the top you wouldn't loose as much (any) if it ever leaked. Also it doesn't apply so much with gravity feed but if you ever installed a tail dragger you wouldn't have to worry about it draining back to aux tank if you went in the top.
 

Shawn K

Professional Cat Confuser
Premier Member
#3
I preferred the top (and did mine that way) because sealing the tank isn't critical like it would be with drilling a hole below the level of the top of the tank.
 

abkeeling

Premier Member
IBA Member
#4
I installed mine by drilling into the rear right of the fuel tank. Auxiliary fuel cell is over the pillion, valve on the left side, so my fuel tubing just runs right down and under the seat and directly across (through an inline filter of course).

It has worked well over the last few years. Have had no issues with it.

View from inside the fuel tank.
IMG_5628.jpeg

Outside of fuel tank:
IMG_5627.jpeg

Outside with barb and fuel pump, showing orientation:
IMG_5633.jpeg
 

RobG4

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#5
I installed mine by drilling into the rear right of the fuel tank. Auxiliary fuel cell is over the pillion, valve on the left side, so my fuel tubing just runs right down and under the seat and directly across (through an inline filter of course).

It has worked well over the last few years. Have had no issues with it.

View from inside the fuel tank.
View attachment 11645

Outside of fuel tank:
View attachment 11646

Outside with barb and fuel pump, showing orientation:
View attachment 11647

Thanks. I tapped the back left of my OEM tank similarly to how you did yours. I made a video of how I did it after the fact (no drilling in the video), for the manufacturer of my aux tank setup. Link is below for anyone that might be interested and want some guidance as to how it's done.

 

abkeeling

Premier Member
IBA Member
#6
For that fuel pump locking ring, I tried that screwdriver method at first but couldn’t get it to budge. Ended up buying the “OEMTOOLS 24398 Fuel Tank Lock Ring Tool” off Amazon for ~$20 if even. Simple 1/2 drive tool that made it much easier to get the ring off/on in the future.
 

RobG4

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#7
For that fuel pump locking ring, I tried that screwdriver method at first but couldn’t get it to budge. Ended up buying the “OEMTOOLS 24398 Fuel Tank Lock Ring Tool” off Amazon for ~$20 if even. Simple 1/2 drive tool that made it much easier to get the ring off/on in the future.
Thanks for the info. I may go ahead and pick one up, but I hope to not have to open the tank back up anytime soon.
 

Auburn

Premier Member
#8
Thanks for the info. I may go ahead and pick one up, but I hope to not have to open the tank back up anytime soon.
Rob, if you have some scrap steel, a surplus short extension and a welder (or a friend with a welder) you can make your own. That's what I did. I used a straight AN-6 bullkhead fitting with Earl's stat-o-seal washers on the inside and outside. Then I can cap the fitting when pulling the tank to service the shock.

The tool is out of scrap 3/16 steel I had laying around.


 

RobG4

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#9
Rob, if you have some scrap steel, a surplus short extension and a welder (or a friend with a welder) you can make your own. That's what I did. I used a straight AN-6 bullkhead fitting with Earl's stat-o-seal washers on the inside and outside. Then I can cap the fitting when pulling the tank to service the shock.

The tool is out of scrap 3/16 steel I had laying around.
Brian, that's a great idea, however I'm not a welder, so I'll have to depend on Amazon for now. The stat-o-seal washers are what I went with, inside and out, and so far I'm very pleased. They lock tight. I put a 90 degree fitting on, and it lines up well with my hose as it comes from the back of the bike. The only other thing I need/want to do is build a radio bracket similar to what you built. The Honda trunk removal kit has worked well so far, but I'd really prefer something a bit sturdier. I need to touch base with Lincoln and see if he's had a chance to look at it.