BMW GS - Hydration system "footpeg"

#1
I've read the many threads on here for inspiration on how I wanted to do my hydration system.
I have the RTIC bottle and the YETI mount that many use, and was trying to come up with a way to mount to my R1250GS.

I'm lucky enough to have a long time really-good-friend named Joz with a machine shop in his home garage and here's what we came up with:

We started with the yeti mount, the rear foot peg with the rubber moved, and a big chunk of aluminum:



Essentially our goal was to turn the block of aluminum into a mega-foot-peg



The tricky part is the 25 degree rotation that foot pegs have built into them between their mount and the "flat platform"


We both had flashbacks to grade school (is anyone else old enough to remember that Ditto or mimeograph smell?
) as Mark painted the metal up so we could etch our cut points:



...and then Joz began milling the block down to our needed thickness:




First dimension complete:


...now the fun begins. we need a 25 degree cut out of the block to get the desired flat:






A rough cut test fit - it is starting to look like it will work!



Some drilling and tapping of the 25 degree holes, and then most test fitting




Bolting the frame to the footpeg



And Voila!


It fits PERFECTLY. The thing is so strong you could lift the bike from it

I copied someone here and used a RAM mount for the upper connection.

The placement ended up perfect. Here you can see the gap to the foam that is there to keep any bouncing around from scratching the panier:


My paniers & racks can completely release without removal of the hydration system (one of the reasons I bought the racks I use - they quick release with quarter turn fasteners).



- it looks dumb hanging out there and for shorter riding days I don't want it so I simply pull one pin and undo the RAM arm and Voila!





I've run about 1500 miles with it so far (half of that dirt) and it is working perfectly.
Very happy with how it turned out.



Thank you to those on here that have shared their setups so I could plagiarize some of your ideas! :)
 
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#2
Tip for anyone copying the idea:

When Joz and I made my peg, we left the footpeg mount in the original square, and then we machined the slope into the length of the block giving us a "nice strong triangle" the length of the material (it is way-overkill-strong).

Someone on ADVrider asked Joz to make them a peg as well - in version 2.0 - Joz machined the 25 degree rotation into the peg itself - and then to add strength to the length he tapered it the other way ( like a footpeg - duuuuuh :D ). A better design as you don't have to drill holes at 25 degrees & such.


 

cacomly

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#4
Nice job! Is there a reason why you did not mount it on the left side away from the muffler and the heat it creates?
 
#5
Heat isn't an issue - it is a vacuum insulated bottle. 24 hours later there is still ice in it :)

I put it on the right side because I get on/off the bike on the left side (and usually access my top case, etc. from the left side) so the right side is more out of the way for my usage.
 

MidTNJasonF

Premier Member
#6
Nice!

I run a MotoJug Hydration system using the RTIC 1 gallon jug as well. It was a life saver in Death Valley and the Mojave Desert earlier this summer.

In fact I had to help a cyclist who was riding in Arches National park and had run out of water. There are fill stations at the entrance Visitors Center but none in the park itself. He had come in with 6 or 8 liters but quickly ran dry. When I saw him he had found a shady spot and was just resting but looking rough. I asked if he was ok and he said yes but as we talked more about each of our trips he finally offered up he was out of water before asking if I had any to spare. I was able to fill up 3 of his Nalgene bottles from my 1 gallon jug. It was a short 15 or so minute ride for me on the motorcycle back to the visitors center to refill but a much longer peddle for him on his bike, with lots of hills. He was optimistic about his ride but I had my doubts he was going to make another 8~10 miles without water. He was no newbie either, he had previously ridden his bicycle from California to Tierra del Fuego, but had misjudged the temps and effort level of the ride that day.


I saw the Yeti holder after I bought my MotoJug system and in retrospect I probably would have liked a more solid mount like you have engineered. The MotoJug system has not given me any issues or concerns but I do like the slicker look of a rigid mount like the Yeti holder. No straps or tails to fuss with.

I also run mine on the right side for the same reasons Edward does. Nothing in the way of mounting from the left and I typically access fuel, bags, and my tank bag from the left when standing next to the bike. Habit mostly I guess.
 
#9
Very nice project, and well done. Thank you for sharing! I have been looking at a "fixed mount" solution for my GSA, and your concept is the best solution I have seen to date. Would you be able to provide some information related to the sourcing of your fittings? I have been searching for a 1/4" 90* brass or stainless bulkhead fitting; similar to the one shown in your photos, without much luck. I also would like, if possible, brand of the 1/4" barbed quick disconnect fitting shown in the photos. It appears to be more robust than those I have seen on Amazon and in the big box stores.
Thank you!
 

EricV

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#10
Being a retired machinist, the penchant for over kill would like to mill a slot across the middle of the mount and install a cross piece to allow the other two Yeti mount holes to be used as well. ~7+ lbs of water and a plastic, (though well made), mount, plus acceleration/deceleration forces over time may lead to cracking of the Yeti mount at the inserts.

The version of this that I made for a simple pot style jug holder used a piece of 3/16", (0.1875") ,thick aluminum plate bolted to the OEM peg after removing the rubber. Then the pot, (actually a dog dish), was bolted to that, a drain hole and a couple of bungie cords finished the jug mounting. A 1 gal Bubba Keg was used. It proved solid over 40k of on and off road riding after that and may still be in use by the new owner of that '16 GSA.
 

EricV

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#11
Very nice project, and well done. Thank you for sharing! I have been looking at a "fixed mount" solution for my GSA, and your concept is the best solution I have seen to date. Would you be able to provide some information related to the sourcing of your fittings? I have been searching for a 1/4" 90* brass or stainless bulkhead fitting; similar to the one shown in your photos, without much luck. I also would like, if possible, brand of the 1/4" barbed quick disconnect fitting shown in the photos. It appears to be more robust than those I have seen on Amazon and in the big box stores.
Thank you!
What jug are you going to use? You don't need a bulkhead fitting. You certainly could, but it's over kill. If you're using a non-metal jug that doesn't have a ceramic liner, it works much better to drill through the side of the jug at the top, rather than the lid. That way you can quickly remove the lid w/o fussing with the quick disconnect on the hose. I still use the quick disconnect fittings for simple ease of jug removal from the bike as needed for filling or cleaning.
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The hose itself retains the plastic 90º elbow fitting. Hard line freezer tubing is used on the vertical, with a slash cut on the bottom to avoid blockage. The $5 jug keeps ice all day if you're not drinking the water faster than that. Igloo brand from Walmart.
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#12
Thanks, but using a metal reservoir with a different design. Have been down the route of plastic jugs prior; prefer to go a different direction this time around. Thanks for your feedback.
 

EricV

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#13
Thanks, but using a metal reservoir with a different design. Have been down the route of plastic jugs prior; prefer to go a different direction this time around. Thanks for your feedback.
Sure, we all have our preferences.

Quick disconnect fittings of a good quality - LINK I've been using these for years and hard abuse w/o issues. That's a good price too. The Camebak ones, when I could find them, were $10+. The Osprey ones are ok too. I haven't used the Mazama ones.

S/S bulkhead fitting. You would need to add hose barbs. 90º 1/4" S/S hose barb. The hose itself would retain the barb to the jug or lid. You're not pressurizing the jug, even if you use a fluid pump to send water up the hose.

90º 1/4" S/S hose barb with 1/8NPT on the other end.
 
#15
Very nice project, and well done. Thank you for sharing! I have been looking at a "fixed mount" solution for my GSA, and your concept is the best solution I have seen to date. Would you be able to provide some information related to the sourcing of your fittings? I have been searching for a 1/4" 90* brass or stainless bulkhead fitting; similar to the one shown in your photos, without much luck. I also would like, if possible, brand of the 1/4" barbed quick disconnect fitting shown in the photos. It appears to be more robust than those I have seen on Amazon and in the big box stores.
Thank you!
They were all Amazon.
When using stainless I suggest using 314 not 304 (i.e. food grade).
I used food grade silicon washers.
The one way check valve is food grade as well.

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#16
Here's the "other half" of my hydration system (I joke that I have hot and cold running water):

When I have the bottle/bags off the bike (local errands, etc) - I switch over to a camelbak bladder that is in my topcase:





It is on a matching Quick Disconnect to the bottle so I just unclick one and click onto the other.



Being un-insulated, this is my hot water system :D

 
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#17
Thanks, Edward for the reply! A couple of questions if you don't mind. Is that an inline check valve or just a shoulder coupling in the photo? If it is a check valve; what was your main reason for the in-line check valve? Eliminate air entrapment during refills? Did the introduction of the in-line check valve increase the resistance of flow (during suction) significantly? Is the quick disconnect on your system not a check valve also? If it is a check valve; what is the mfg/ source? Do you have a source for the food grade silicon washers? Again, thanks for taking the time to share your photos and designs/information. Hopefully I am not being too big of a pain in the ###### with all my questions.
 
#18
It is a one-way check valve. It keeps the water in the hose from draining back to the bottle so I get instant water when I drink as opposed to 3 gulps of air to pull the water back up. This particular one requires something like 0.3kpa of pressure to open.

The quick disconnects are a "check valve" in the sense that when you disconnect them, they stop the water flow.
They do not stop the waterflow when connected.

You can find everything on Amazon.
 

EricV

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#20
@Edward Walker - Can you share your source for the tube insulation you used?

Hydration system users fall into two categories: A) Blow back and B) Insulate. I blow back so the next sip is cold water. The Insulate guys don't blow back, but usually get an ok temp sip right away. I prefer not having water sitting in the tube. No right way, only an individual preference.

You learn quickly if you don't insulate or blow back that the next sip can be HOT water. :eek: Especially for the Desert riders.