Just did mine again last night, remove pads, Quick Wash, 35c, 2 Rinses, liquid soap...and tumble dry high...I do them separately, no Nikwax, the heat from the dryer reactivates the Gor-Tex...sorted
That's an interesting comment about the tumble dryer. I didn't know Goretex needed reactivating, I thought it was just inherently waterproof. As discussed on Monday (you weren't there, Kim), my wife suggested that my abject failure to stay dry on the BBR was due to the BMW Rallye outer not having been re-treated with Nikwax reproofer; that meant the outer didn't repel water and ended up sodden, and then water got in around the Goretex inner.
That's an interesting comment about the tumble dryer. I didn't know Goretex needed reactivating, I thought it was just inherently waterproof. As discussed on Monday (you weren't there, Kim), my wife suggested that my abject failure to stay dry on the BBR was due to the BMW Rallye outer not having been re-treated with Nikwax reproofer; that meant the outer didn't repel water and ended up sodden, and then water got in around the Goretex inner.
I also have the BMW Rallye, haven't worn it in years...when I did the BMW off-road course my instructor said to wear the 'waterproof' jacket on the outside. Bugger me it worked great, all that weight of water that it collects is heavy and damp, get's into your bones!
So try it on the outside, it works!
Just did mine again last night, remove pads, Quick Wash, 35c, 2 Rinses, liquid soap...and tumble dry high...I do them separately, no Nikwax, the heat from the dryer reactivates the Gor-Tex...sorted
That's an interesting comment about the tumble dryer. I didn't know Goretex needed reactivating, I thought it was just inherently waterproof. As discussed on Monday (you weren't there, Kim), my wife suggested that my abject failure to stay dry on the BBR was due to the BMW Rallye outer not having been re-treated with Nikwax reproofer; that meant the outer didn't repel water and ended up sodden, and then water got in around the Goretex inner.
Drying with heat recharges the DWR on the fabric surface. After your GORE-TEX® item is completely dry, we recommend to put it back into the dryer for an extra twenty (20) minutes to guarantee that the DWR is re-activated.DWR is important! Without it, the surface fabric of your gear will “wet-out” faster. You’ll still be dry on the inside (thanks to the GORE-TEX® membrane) but conductive heat loss and comfort can quickly make your day less enjoyable. Water conducts heat 23-times as fast as air. You want DWR to work as long as possible to keep the conductive heat loss to a minimum. DWR is not permanent and will wear off. Drying re-activates it many times but re-applying a DWR treatment is a big step in prolonging comfort.
That's an interesting comment about the tumble dryer. I didn't know Goretex needed reactivating, I thought it was just inherently waterproof. As discussed on Monday (you weren't there, Kim), my wife suggested that my abject failure to stay dry on the BBR was due to the BMW Rallye outer not having been re-treated with Nikwax reproofer; that meant the outer didn't repel water and ended up sodden, and then water got in around the Goretex inner.
On all my gore-tex gear, both bike and outdoors stuff I always use and can highly recommend using Nikwax Tech Wash first, then leave your item in the washing machine and do another suitable wash cycle but this time using Nickwax TX Direct. The first one helps clean the item and the second one re-wateroofs the outer layer. They're both an approved by 'Gore-tex' product. You then just hang them up to dry not use a tumble dryer.
I think I should have gone for the Kodiak as it is more towards touring whereas the Badlands is more towards adventure. I found it hard to find stock and sizes of each jacket to try before I bought. I narrowed it down to Rukka, Halverson or KLIM. Rukka was said to be hot in warmer weather whereas the KLIM has excellent ventilation. I never really found Halverson to look at but they do offer good gear.
So far I have been very happy with my KLIM Badlands Pro Jacket and trousers.
I think I should have gone for the Kodiak as it is more towards touring whereas the Badlands is more towards adventure. I found it hard to find stock and sizes of each jacket to try before I bought. I narrowed it down to Rukka, Halverson or KLIM. Rukka was said to be hot in warmer weather whereas the KLIM has excellent ventilation. I never really found Halverson to look at but they do offer good gear. So far I have been very happy with my KLIM Badlands Pro Jacket and trousers.
Same here Dave. I originally wanted their black/hi-viz Badlands jacket but fortunately down in Suffolk there's the 'Adventure Bike' shop who are Klim stockists. When I tried it on it was much longer down at the back meaning having to keep lifting it up when sitting on the bike, plus it felt quite crunchy too. I then went for the Kodiak as it was slightly shorter at the bottom (at the back only), had better bicep venting straps to hold the zip open and felt less crunchy too, helped by perforated leather shoulder and elbow covers. I paid them a couple of hundred quid and then they did zero interest finance for the next year.
Mine is the black and grey version. Awesome ventilation in hot weather and superbly waterproof too. The other thing I like about it is the two low pockets have side zip access not top, so this feels better and naturally easier if you want to get your bike keys in or out, or walk along with your hands inside.
Just did mine again last night, remove pads, Quick Wash, 35c, 2 Rinses, liquid soap...and tumble dry high...I do them separately, no Nikwax, the heat from the dryer reactivates the Gor-Tex...sorted
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I have had the KLIM two piece suit for two years, Wash and hang it up to dry. Never have used the dryer. Never have had a problem with the leaking in anyway! Love it, is see more and more LD riders using it all the time. My riding partner had a problem with his coat zipper failing. They replace the entire coat with a new model!