finding a plug-n-play solution for that bike could prove to be problematic since it's not a popular bike among LD types. however, if you know or can find someone that has the knowledge to build the mounts, you may want to consider a cell from
I've been working with the owner/mechanic of the dealership here in town and have sent him the Ironbutt rules and he said he can't do it, he knows the voyager pretty well as there isn't a system for it, he said there isn't anywhere to plum the gas lines, it's in the shop right now getting it's 50k mile service and I asked him to try one more time to come up with something, otherwise I'll just make the klr my Ironbutt bike, I did a ss1k on it this summer and it did really good, and they make a 10 gal tank for it, but for states that have a 80mph speed limit the voyager is the better bike.
well, i'm certainly no expert on the matter, but seems like any fuel system can be tapped into whether it's an appropriate fuel line or the tank itself. my issue has always been finding someone who can build the mounting system. i have damn near zero skills in that department.
Where do you want the tank to sit?
1) taildragger style so you maintain your current rear box.
2) on the passenger seat in front of the rear box eg a Tourtank keg. No pillion with that option and access to electrics etc under the seat can be a hassle.
3) on the passenger seat but underneath, like a custom alloy flatbed style and using a different rear box eg a pelican case. Not elegant on a cruiser, but very efficient and practical. No pillion.
4) on the rear rack replacing the current box so long as the rack assembly is up to the load. Something like a JAZ tank could bolt on there pretty easily. Luggage space is lost of course.
5) somewhere else eg hidden in a pannier. Likely more complex and probably not the best option. Luggage space lost.
6) Frankentank enlargement modification to the front tank.
How do you want to plumb the system?
Options 1 and 5 above need a fuel pump. Options 2, 3 and 4 probably don't and should work with just gravity.
Are you willing to drill and bulkhead the front tank as Tom suggests above? That is a common approach. The plumbing is pretty simple after that: just supply and vent hoses, filter, drybreak and a tap.
Inserting a T-piece into a return line is possible, but may require a fuel pump.
I just want a system that I can put over the passenger seat then be able to take off when I have a passenger, thought maybe a quick connect would be what I needed, me and my girlfriend go on long trips so I need my luggage space, really don't want to drill my tank, I travel with her more than I do Ironbutt rides, so I may have to make my klr the work bike/Ironbutt bike, I can get a 10 gal tank for $500, I ride the klr every day, the voyager is only used if the klr is in the shop or on big trips, I thought I could get a simple system that I could take off and on, my goal is to start doing rallys and hopefully some day into the IBR, my voyager would be the better of my two bikes for all that.
If your long distance 'on the clock' rides and rallies are going to be solo, the simplest solution for mounting would be to replace the rear luggage box with a tank.
Shorter rides would still allow a pillion with the tank in place. Just remove the tank and refit the box for two-up rides needing more luggage.
Then it just remains to decide how much luggage you need when solo. A round Tourtank keg or a JAZ style tank can make packing gear more difficult, but if you make or have made a custom 'canvas' bag over the tank you can have pockets fitted to the bag. Linda T bags come to mind. I just used a spare overnight bag that had a couple of pockets.
More space would be available if you had a flat, rectangular tank custom made and bolt a pelican box or similar to the top.
As for plumbing, if you are unwilling to drill the tank then T-ing into the return line with an additional pump will probably be required. That has mixed results, depending on the pressures in the return line. When removing the tank you would then need a quick-release drybreak that could withstand the return line pressures (this stubby hose could remain connected and just be left secured somewhere in the space behind the rear cylinder head or under the seat.). Either that or lift the tank and remove the 'T'', but that adds to the hassle.
I must confess that I get nervous each time I drill one of my tanks, but is not at all difficult. When removing the tank temporarily a dry break can stay in place on a short length of fuel hose. For more permanent removal a suitably sized bolt can be slipped into the hose and clamped off. It is all low pressure with this type of gravity feed.
Those kind of bikes can pull it off, the voyager would not look good without the trunk. Basically what I was hoping to find was something that I could take the passenger seat off, put the tank in it's place, hook up the lines and go, get home and take it off and put the seat back on, just a quick switch, 5 min or less, my voyager is my baby, I don't really want to butcher it up.
Don't give up Rodney. The IBR is worth 5 minutes of your time.
No need to butcher your bike.
Buy a spare pillion seat from ebay, remove the padding and fab up and bolt on a platform to the stripped pan. Bolt a tank to the platform. You'll have to figure out the tank and seat space dimensions as I'm not familiar with your Voyager (engine size? pics perhaps?). Add metal plates or straps to bolt to the pannier rails. They can be slotted so that the pannier rails only need be loosened, not removed. It must be strong enough to pass the Warchild 'shake the bike' test.
The process would be:
Remove pillion seat with key/spanner.
Loosen pannier rails
Fit spare pan/tank.
Slot in metal straps
Tighten pannier rails
Connect fuel line and vent line.
Including a donor tank and paint work, $1500 bucks is probably going to be the magic number.
Finding someone to do it is another matter. You also want to stay within IBA regs in case you enter a big rally
I have a donor tank and it was going to be a very similar just a bit more rounded. Still using my Aux Tank
Again I have the AP version Radio box to have and looked at one stage to put a small tank in it but it's just too small as you know so it's going to be just for paperwork. (Still a project)
I tried the screen but went back to the eagle version I have.
Tested the Helibar triple clamp but took it off after I found it just did not fit me and went back to the AP version which I fitted as a Mod
Canyon cages one of the best bit's I've fitted to the FJR
Chuck!!!! I'm smitten, the frankentank IS gorgeous.
Tell me more, who did it, what are the specs, how has the IBA been with the tank regarding tech inspections, etc. Function, any gas hiding in the corners, turning, sloshing?
Tell me everything. I love it.
BTW, I ride a 2013 FJR1300 so you know, I gotta have one....