Corrosion protection
- Thread starter Winglider
- Start date
Used Pearson & Wilkinson Super Shield, a long time ago on a Harley Road King and rode all through the winter without any corrosion. But it built up a lot of dirt over the winter and was a pig to wash off. like a waxy finish. Needed lots of hot water to clean it off.
I am looking for something that works well like ACF 50, but dose it was off OK when you wash your bike and then re-spray.
I am looking for something that works well like ACF 50, but dose it was off OK when you wash your bike and then re-spray.
does not matter to much what you choose to prevent corrosion as long as it stays where its put, or is renewed regularly. oxidization occurs on metals in there natural state by exposure to the atmosphere in vary degrees depending on the severity of the environment i.e. seawater is more corrosive than tap water due to the salt content that promotes corrosion. Or electrolysis (electrical current passing between two dissimilar metals) this is why steel bolts cease into alloy engine casings etc. if a bare metal component is made and handled with bare hands the corrosion process will begin if left untreated this is caused by the moisture from your hands, we used to lightly oil bare metal that was left overnight or longer and this effectively saved it from corrosion.
to prevent this oxidization you need to seal the components from the cause of corrosion paint is good and doesn't wash of. anodizing or galvanizing is also a surface treatment that prevents corrosion. Failing that a light grease or oil applied is effective as it forms a seal over the component and as with oil has the advantage of seeping into little gaps which is why i said light oil. the only disadvantage is it can wash of so requires reapplying. i buy 5 litres at a time and reapply after every wash. not to fused on the make but look for value and a known brand.
there is also wax and bitumen sealants around remembering under-seal on cars etc but have rarely seen them used on bikes
Also the make up of the metal will affect the actual speed of corrosion occurring. Any steel / aluminium is basically an alloy made up of various materials in varying quantities so you get what you pay for.
to prevent this oxidization you need to seal the components from the cause of corrosion paint is good and doesn't wash of. anodizing or galvanizing is also a surface treatment that prevents corrosion. Failing that a light grease or oil applied is effective as it forms a seal over the component and as with oil has the advantage of seeping into little gaps which is why i said light oil. the only disadvantage is it can wash of so requires reapplying. i buy 5 litres at a time and reapply after every wash. not to fused on the make but look for value and a known brand.
there is also wax and bitumen sealants around remembering under-seal on cars etc but have rarely seen them used on bikes
Also the make up of the metal will affect the actual speed of corrosion occurring. Any steel / aluminium is basically an alloy made up of various materials in varying quantities so you get what you pay for.
i found it tacky so bits stick to the area treated more than acf, i don't think it’s a product, like acf that you could mist on, appears too thick in the form i have it in,
may be in the aerosol it is better at being applied, i just feel it’s a product for a specific application area/problem area as opposed to acf that you can apply by compressor all over (with obvious exceptions)
as for anti-rust performance, cannot say to early
probably just as good with a can of 3in1 oil and a rag
may be in the aerosol it is better at being applied, i just feel it’s a product for a specific application area/problem area as opposed to acf that you can apply by compressor all over (with obvious exceptions)
as for anti-rust performance, cannot say to early
probably just as good with a can of 3in1 oil and a rag
