Filler style
- Thread starter Super8mm
- Start date
Steve Bracken
Premier Member
The flat, aviation-style caps can be very difficult to open and close ... and the gaskets deteriorate fast. You might get a good one, I never have.
I find a filler neck, with a screw-cap by far the easiest to use. Tether the cap.
I find a filler neck, with a screw-cap by far the easiest to use. Tether the cap.
I have only used the flush mount fillers on several LD bike builds over the past 20 years, with no leaking issues on any of them.
Frankly, I am surprised that some of the side bend extra tall filler necks are even allowed to pass tech inspection.
Depending on the mounting location, some that I have seen have the potential to take an impact in some crash scenarios, which given their leverage, could break them off the tanks creating a serious fuel spill. Don't recall that this has ever happened, but there is a first time for everything.
Frankly, I am surprised that some of the side bend extra tall filler necks are even allowed to pass tech inspection.
Depending on the mounting location, some that I have seen have the potential to take an impact in some crash scenarios, which given their leverage, could break them off the tanks creating a serious fuel spill. Don't recall that this has ever happened, but there is a first time for everything.
Super8mm
Premier Member
Thanks for sharing your experience John, that was my worry about dropping the bike and breaking the neck loose.
I am prone to dropping my bikes because of to many knee surgeries, they are a bit loose and don't always hold me up
at least I can still pick up both my GT and GS, but it does may my grand kids born naked and bald.
one like the Summit style would probably be easier to move from bike to bike as on has a big top case and the other uses a BMW tail bag.
I would have to take it someplace and get some attachments welded on to it before I ever put fuel in it.
Thanks
I am prone to dropping my bikes because of to many knee surgeries, they are a bit loose and don't always hold me up
at least I can still pick up both my GT and GS, but it does may my grand kids born naked and bald.one like the Summit style would probably be easier to move from bike to bike as on has a big top case and the other uses a BMW tail bag.
I would have to take it someplace and get some attachments welded on to it before I ever put fuel in it.
Thanks
Steve Bracken
Premier Member
Steve Bracken
Premier Member
Another view ....
Steve Bracken
Premier Member
Yes
Steve Bracken
Premier Member
It was made by Boyd Welding, in Florida.
Steve Bracken
Premier Member
No.
So I designed that tank, and the mount it sits on. Once I had the mount welded up I made a template so I could get the dimensions for the tank that it would clear the grab handles, be set back far enough and leave room for the top case.
I emailed a drawing (revised a couple of times) to Boyd Welding for a quote.
They quoted about $290, incl. shipping and delivered in about three weeks.
Steve Bracken
Premier Member
Here is one of the drawings:
A picture of the mount:
... and the mount with the backrest support attached:
A picture of the mount:
... and the mount with the backrest support attached:
This is not going to break loose:
Having seen a few aluminum structural failures in relatively mild m/c mishaps over the years, I hope that comment does not wind up being akin to "hold my beer and watch this".
Steve Bracken
Premier Member
Me too
In the end we have to trust the work done for us is up to par, and Boyd certainly seem to know what they are doing.
You'll probably get the chance to check it at Tech Inspection
When things that act as levers are attached to aluminum, even small forces can crack, break, or tear the aluminum rather easily. Besides broken aluminum levers, I have seen minor parking lot tip overs result in cracked or broken thick aluminum footpeg mounts, snapped aluminum rear subframes, broken aluminum mounting tabs from main frame spars, snapped off shock mounts, etc.
While not a common occurrence, there have been cases of bikes tipping over on an off camber surface and rolling past the point of just resting on the pegs, tip over bars, or side cases. Depending on the mounting position of the tank and the filler location, such a situation could result in the filler neck hitting something solid with the momentum of the bike behind it. That could be enough leverage to tear the filler tube out of the side of the tank (the welds might hold, but they are stronger than the thin sheet the tube is welded to), resulting in a spill. A similar situation could occur during a crash, with similar results...unless the bike is sliding and creating sparks, which might be a bit more serious.
The ease of bending or breaking aluminum is one of the reasons I like to use it for aux light mounts instead of steel. It is light and strong enough to hold the lights securely, but in case of impact the aluminum is likely to fail before transferring a lot of force into the more expensive and harder to repair subframe of the bike.
When you look at some of the things that have happened to rally riders over the years to put a damper on the rather extreme amount of time and hard earned money that riders put into getting themselves to the starting line of the IBR, it seems reasonable to me to do as much as possible to set up a rally bike to survive a parking lot tipover or gravel road bonus crash or even a lowside in the rain. Picking the bike up, finding only minor damage, and continuing the rally sure beats seeing a couple of years of prep going down the drain....or up in smoke.
While not a common occurrence, there have been cases of bikes tipping over on an off camber surface and rolling past the point of just resting on the pegs, tip over bars, or side cases. Depending on the mounting position of the tank and the filler location, such a situation could result in the filler neck hitting something solid with the momentum of the bike behind it. That could be enough leverage to tear the filler tube out of the side of the tank (the welds might hold, but they are stronger than the thin sheet the tube is welded to), resulting in a spill. A similar situation could occur during a crash, with similar results...unless the bike is sliding and creating sparks, which might be a bit more serious.
The ease of bending or breaking aluminum is one of the reasons I like to use it for aux light mounts instead of steel. It is light and strong enough to hold the lights securely, but in case of impact the aluminum is likely to fail before transferring a lot of force into the more expensive and harder to repair subframe of the bike.
When you look at some of the things that have happened to rally riders over the years to put a damper on the rather extreme amount of time and hard earned money that riders put into getting themselves to the starting line of the IBR, it seems reasonable to me to do as much as possible to set up a rally bike to survive a parking lot tipover or gravel road bonus crash or even a lowside in the rain. Picking the bike up, finding only minor damage, and continuing the rally sure beats seeing a couple of years of prep going down the drain....or up in smoke.