Time for a new scooter

J

Jbarth13

New Member
#1
#1
Hi all,

I've considered myself an ADV guy for most of my riding career, but all of my certification work has been on HD touring bikes; I work part time with a HD Riding Academy site, so getting service work done while I'm coaching on the range is just super convenient.

Unfortunately, circumstances are changing, and the HD-sized payment needs to go as I move back into the world of being single. The replacement bike needs to be pretty cheap (5-8k), reliable, something I can do most of the wrenching on, and quite competent at LD work. I'm tempted to get into rallying, and I also enjoy police rodeo/tight conework.

I've been thinking in terms of a 3rd gen (2013ish) FJR, or perhaps an earlier (2008ish) R1200RT. The dry clutch on the RT concerns me (remember, conework), but I otherwise like the riding position, and they're a popular cone bike. I'm unsure if the FJR's turning circle will be a touch wider than I'd like. I could maybe seen an ADV bike, but I do like the comfortable bubble provided by a more road-oriented bike. Cruise control is important to me.

Any advice? Anything I'm missing?
 
EddyC

EddyC

IBA Member
#2
#2
In my experience both the FJR and the RT are wonderful bikes to ride, especially in a LD environment.

If you want to do it all (LD, conework, etc.) in a comfortable manner, get an RT.
I think you might find the FJR somewhat "sluggish" to do cones and perhaps not so maintenance friendly, should you plan to do everything yourself.
Also, an FJR sits a bit sporty, where an RT offers a more comfortable riding position, at least from my point of view.
That may be of somewhat importance whilst on a LD run.

Depending of the milage, check the wheel bearings of the RT and get a compression test of the four cylinders of the FJR.
In earlier models the cylinder gasket had a tendency to leak and sometimes blow.
Of course, a 2008 RT is not a match for a 2013 FJR if you are looking for acceleration and speed. But I'm told speed is not important on a LD ride ;-)

Bottom line: IMHO you have to decide where your priorities lie and start from there.

Best of luck,
Ed.
 
keithu

keithu

Premier Member
IBA Member
IBR Finisher
#4
#4
Yamaha FJ-09 or Tracer 900? Similar riding position to a BMW GS, and you could do cone work on it with one arm behind your back. They all have ABS and traction control. The GT models have cruise control from the factory, and it's easy to add MCCruise to non-GTs because they're all throttle by wire. They're reliable, serviceable, and in your price range. They lack the wind protection of the bigger bikes but there's a huge aftermarket with many windshield options.
 
Motoproponent

Motoproponent

Member
#5
#5
I'm selling a 2014 KTM 1190 Adventure for less than $5000. Full luggage, rotopax extra fuel and Rigid Fogs and Aux. I'll throw in an extra Madstad touring screen I was going to offload separately with some extra bits I've collected over the years.
 
EricV

EricV

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#6
#6
I'm FJR biased, having put nearly 200k on an '04. Valve checks are every 26k. The only maintenance item that's more difficult on the FJR than the RT is the valves. And it was the RT that suffered from occasional cylinder gasket issues. Fairly strait forward to deal with, but money being spent. And you'll never see the dealer on a FJR, but they will be your best friend on an RT. Everything is more expensive, parts, service, etc, on the RT, though they did start giving out free driveshafts in the EU for Wethead 1200s and 1250s. Driveshaft on a FJR needs to be replaced every.... NEVER.

FWIW - Beautiful wife has put over 100k on a F650GS2 and ~40k on a R1200GSA so I'm more familiar with BMW than I ever wanted to be.

Go ride a FJR and see what you like/dislike. I used to do lock to lock turns with a car tire on the back w/o issues. You can find low mile FJRs in your price point often. And about that dry clutch on the RT, it requires a full tranny/engine separation to do the clutch on the pre wet head bikes. That's a real PITA. I wouldn't trust a low mile BMW that's been sitting more than riding. Things have a tendency to go bad right after the 36k warranty period ends. Our issues started before that on one, slightly after on the other. Expensive stuff like a tranny replacement on one and ABS block on the other.

Super Tenere is another option. Tighter turn radius than the FJR, solid bikes. I put about 150k on Super Tens. CC was at '14 if I recall. Same options for adding CC after, but the McCruise kits are stupid expensive. The factory Yamaha CC works very, very well.
 
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Dave28117

Dave28117

Premier Member
#7
#7
I've been looking into downsizing from my Goldwing. the RT and FJR seem to be at the top of my list. I'm leaning toward FJR because I'm leery of the BMW cost-of-ownership.
 
Motoproponent

Motoproponent

Member
#8
#8
I'm pretty committed to being an early adopter of electric motorcycles. The KTM is probably the last gas powered bike I'll ever buy. Now it's taking up precious space in the garage and hopefully will go to a loving home :)
 
Dave28117

Dave28117

Premier Member
#9
#9
Motoproponent said:
I'm pretty committed to being an early adopter of electric motorcycles. The KTM is probably the last gas powered bike I'll ever buy. Now it's taking up precious space in the garage and hopefully will go to a loving home :)
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so....no more IBA rides? I've not seen any EVs large enough for some comfort while trekking 1000 miles and still make a reasonable pace. Are such bikes out in the market now?
 
Motoproponent

Motoproponent

Member
#10
#10
Dave28117 said:
so....no more IBA rides? I've not seen any EVs large enough for some comfort while trekking 1000 miles and still make a reasonable pace. Are such bikes out in the market now?
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Well, mathematically speaking....My Bike, The Energica Experia, has the range and charging speed to do a Saddle Sore 1000 but it will take about 22 hours.

That leaves very little time for software /firmware glitches finding a new charger if the one you planned is occupied or out of service, unexpected detours, etc.

It's only been done once before in 2014. That was a custom modded Zero with a streamliner fairing, extra batteries and extra chargers, and all the things needed to do it with the nascent AC Charging infrastructure that was present in the US 10 years ago. Here in California the density of DCFC EV Chargers is exponentially greater and the fact that an IBA Ride is even possible is saying something. The technology is only getting better and better. More range and faster charging. I'm determined to complete a Saddle Sore 1000 and maybe even a Bun Burner 1500 based on the experience.

I'm 50 and will be retired in a few more years. What else am I going to do with my time :)

A guy's gotta have goals right?


the math for the mathematically speaking part,

I can average about 140 watt hours per mile. So, for 1000 miles it would take 140kilowatt hours of energy. the bike can reliably do 20 kilowatts of charging speed so that means 7 hours of charging. Actually it would be 6.5 hours because making it to the 1000th mile could deplete the battery and I wouldn't need to charge "on the clock" so to speak. When I am riding I would need to keep my speed above 60 MPH to be able to cover the 1000 miles in about 16 hours. So about 22 hours of riding.

Realistically though, I expect it to come down to the wire. Requiring me to ride for a solid 24 hours with minutes to spare...if everything goes relatively perfect.
 
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keithu

keithu

Premier Member
IBA Member
IBR Finisher
#12
#12
Motoproponent said:
A guy's gotta have goals right?
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Right on. I'm excited to hear about your first SS1k on the Energica, please keep posting.

Realistically though, I expect it to come down to the wire. Requiring me to ride for a solid 24 hours with minutes to spare...if everything goes relatively perfect.
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This math problem is the same on a petrol or electric bike. Theoretical range falls apart in the real world where there isn't a gas or charging station every five miles. You can almost never use your full theoretical range.

Charging networks are getting better all the time. The main advantage of a petrol bike is rapid refueling.
 
Ed.

Ed.

Premier Member
#14
#14
Motoproponent said:
I'm selling a 2014 KTM 1190 Adventure for less than $5000. Full luggage, rotopax extra fuel and Rigid Fogs and Aux. I'll throw in an extra Madstad touring screen I was going to offload separately with some extra bits I've collected over the years.
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Don't happen to be in Minnesota, do you? R or S model? How m many km...errrm miles on it?
 
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