I lived in cali and moved to the east coast. Needless to say it rains alot more here. Im going to plan my next iron butt ss1500. Rain worries me a bit on turns. Any tips for riding in the rain would be awesome. My biggest fear is that the bike will slip out. I need to trust my tires more and work on technique. Thank you!
Tips to ride in the rain?
- Thread starter Capone
- Start date
Smooth is the word of the day. Accelerate gently. Slow and steady in turns. Gentle braking.
Watch for rutted pavement it can be linear puddles that can have you hydroplane. Stripes get slick in the rain. Utility covers worse.
You probably know the early part of the rain releases the road oil, especially if it hadn't rained lately.
Watch for rutted pavement it can be linear puddles that can have you hydroplane. Stripes get slick in the rain. Utility covers worse.
You probably know the early part of the rain releases the road oil, especially if it hadn't rained lately.
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Rain can be very dangerous, but not always. Car tires tend to keep the road clean where they travel, but the center of each lane tends to accumulate various oils. Few things on this planet are as slick as wet oil. Once it has been raining for half an hour or so, the water washes off all the oils and you are left with just a wet road. You do have less traction, but it's not too bad. You still have about 90% of dry traction even on a wet road. Motorcycle tires are good at cutting through water because of how they are shaped. They work kinda like how a submarine cuts through water. (If you ride on the dark side, all bets are off.) Just don't try to scrape pegs or anything like that. You'll get in trouble pushing things in the rain.
That center stripe is slick as snot in the rain no matter how long it's been raining. Avoid that like the plague! In fact, anything that isn't concrete or asphalt is going to be slick. Be careful with bridge expansion joints, manhole covers, temporary road repairs, tar snakes, and anything that doesn't quite match the rest of the road. Discoloration means something is different. If something is different, traction is going to be different too. Watch out! Also remember that the road is wet, so it will be harder to see gravel or other road debris. Take it easy and you'll be okay.
Intersections can be particularly bad for accumulating oils, so use extra caution there. A few drops of oil or coolant at an intersection can result in a really bad day. On wet roads, that drop won't stay where it falls. It can easily end up in your path and get a slide started. Keep a little distance between yourself and the car ahead of you. It will increase your chances of seeing an oil slick.
Just like in a car, light throttle and brake inputs are your friend. Throttle because you don't want to burnout. Brake because your disks will be wet. They have to be dry to work well, so they might not bite like you are used to at first. If you have a rain mode, use it. Don't try to be tough guy or too cool for fancy rider aids. It isn't worth it.
I'd suggest going the same speed as the traffic around you, but be extra careful to not be in a blind spot. Visibility is low for you and for them. You are small and easy to miss. Don't let traffic box you in. Always have a good escape route. If you are slower than traffic, you run the risk of someone coming up on you and not realizing that you are a small bike and not a car farther ahead. If you are faster, well, you're probably going too fast for road conditions. You could also be blinded by the spray behind a vehicle and not realize that they are going much slower than you expected. Just try to blend in but be visible.
And the most important thing: Relax! Nothing is worse than a death grip on the controls. It will make the bike unsteady and it will be physically and mentally draining on you. That's a recipe for disaster. Loose grip on the controls, not much weight on your hands, etc. You know what you are doing. Trust yourself and your bike and relax.
That center stripe is slick as snot in the rain no matter how long it's been raining. Avoid that like the plague! In fact, anything that isn't concrete or asphalt is going to be slick. Be careful with bridge expansion joints, manhole covers, temporary road repairs, tar snakes, and anything that doesn't quite match the rest of the road. Discoloration means something is different. If something is different, traction is going to be different too. Watch out! Also remember that the road is wet, so it will be harder to see gravel or other road debris. Take it easy and you'll be okay.
Intersections can be particularly bad for accumulating oils, so use extra caution there. A few drops of oil or coolant at an intersection can result in a really bad day. On wet roads, that drop won't stay where it falls. It can easily end up in your path and get a slide started. Keep a little distance between yourself and the car ahead of you. It will increase your chances of seeing an oil slick.
Just like in a car, light throttle and brake inputs are your friend. Throttle because you don't want to burnout. Brake because your disks will be wet. They have to be dry to work well, so they might not bite like you are used to at first. If you have a rain mode, use it. Don't try to be tough guy or too cool for fancy rider aids. It isn't worth it.
I'd suggest going the same speed as the traffic around you, but be extra careful to not be in a blind spot. Visibility is low for you and for them. You are small and easy to miss. Don't let traffic box you in. Always have a good escape route. If you are slower than traffic, you run the risk of someone coming up on you and not realizing that you are a small bike and not a car farther ahead. If you are faster, well, you're probably going too fast for road conditions. You could also be blinded by the spray behind a vehicle and not realize that they are going much slower than you expected. Just try to blend in but be visible.
And the most important thing: Relax! Nothing is worse than a death grip on the controls. It will make the bike unsteady and it will be physically and mentally draining on you. That's a recipe for disaster. Loose grip on the controls, not much weight on your hands, etc. You know what you are doing. Trust yourself and your bike and relax.
Let me second that. The key ingredient in safe, competent, flowing riding is a relaxed rider. Modern tyres work, even in the rain. Avoid obvious risks, as CB says, the middle between tyre tracks, the edges of the road. Watch for diesel spills and lunatic car drivers. Slow down and allow more time for observation and evasion.
Relax.
Relax.
Generally speaking you have about 80% of your dry traction in the wet. I grew up in Oregon and rode there for 45 years or so. If you don't ride in the rain, you're not riding much. Moto tires are better at parting water than auto tires due to the rounded profile. In most cases, maintain the same speeds you normally would and you'll be fine. Don't create a hazard by slowing below traffic speed unless conditions really require it and then put your flashers on and keep to the right lane. That would be truly torrential rain and standing water on the road.
Most riders can just ride like they always do, because they don't normally push the envelope to 80% of their traction level to begin with. The bike has two gyroscopes on it, (your wheels), that want to stay upright and keep turning. Don't fight it by being too tense, and don't do anything suddenly to upset the bike's tendency to just keep going down the road. And remember that slowing down too much means losing the energy in those gyroscopes that are keeping you upright.
As others said, watch out for lines and other painted surfaces on the pavement, especially in a corner or when you're leaned over. Most states don't put any traction material in the paint and they are very slick. Manhole covers too. RR tracks are no big deal, just try to cross them perpendicular and not in a lean. Sometimes this means slowing down, swinging to one side of the road and cutting across to the other so you can cross angled tracks strait on.
When it first begins to rain after a dry spell you will often see a white foam mixed in with the water on a high traffic road. Those are the oils and other crud coming off the pavement and that can contribute to a slickness. Just use some caution to avoid sharp maneuvers when encountering this stuff. No big deal.
And keep in mind, especially on the back roads, that road material changes at the country line in many cases. For lack of a better term, the tar in the asphalt varies and some clean, otherwise normal roads can be slicker when wet, even though they don't have much water on them. Some of the Texas Hill country FM roads are like this.
Most riders can just ride like they always do, because they don't normally push the envelope to 80% of their traction level to begin with. The bike has two gyroscopes on it, (your wheels), that want to stay upright and keep turning. Don't fight it by being too tense, and don't do anything suddenly to upset the bike's tendency to just keep going down the road. And remember that slowing down too much means losing the energy in those gyroscopes that are keeping you upright.
As others said, watch out for lines and other painted surfaces on the pavement, especially in a corner or when you're leaned over. Most states don't put any traction material in the paint and they are very slick. Manhole covers too. RR tracks are no big deal, just try to cross them perpendicular and not in a lean. Sometimes this means slowing down, swinging to one side of the road and cutting across to the other so you can cross angled tracks strait on.
When it first begins to rain after a dry spell you will often see a white foam mixed in with the water on a high traffic road. Those are the oils and other crud coming off the pavement and that can contribute to a slickness. Just use some caution to avoid sharp maneuvers when encountering this stuff. No big deal.
And keep in mind, especially on the back roads, that road material changes at the country line in many cases. For lack of a better term, the tar in the asphalt varies and some clean, otherwise normal roads can be slicker when wet, even though they don't have much water on them. Some of the Texas Hill country FM roads are like this.
Everyone has weighed in on road surfaces to watch for. You can also use the technique of leaning off the bike in slower turns to keep the bike mostly upright, especially if there are a lot of tar snakes on the surface. I would also add to make sure you have good waterproof gear. I would especially test gloves by submerging them in a bowl or bucket of water for a bit, both to see if they'll leak and to see how much the outer material absorbs. You can assist the outer shell by applying something like Nikwax Glove Proof prior to the trip. Once you get wet, you get cold, and thus distracted. I would carry Nikwax Visor Proof, which works like Rain-X for plastic visors and windscreens. Of course, you'll want to apply it before you leave, but you can re-apply if it starts to wear off too much on the trip. Last, I would invest in a Pinlock insert or another anti-fog solution for your visor if the temps are going to be below about 60 deg F. Good visibility goes a long way in staying safe.
Man you guys are great. I really appreciate the time it takes to explain and help with my concern. Thank you so much. This advice gives me alot of tips to do. This gives me more confidence riding in the rain. Most of all it will really help to hit my iba rides and not give up in the middle of a run unless its pouring.
All of the above indeed.
Need I say to wear "all the gear all the time"? I prefer my gear "high visual".
Might give you that extra dot of security.
Also, mind your electronic stuff (gps etc.) - they might not be that resistant to wet conditions.
Any luggage? Don't forget to waterproof the contents of your tankbag, topcase ...
For me, it comforts me when if I know the rain can't hurt or damage anything.
Don't underestimate rain but don't be afraid of it.
CU... Ed.
Need I say to wear "all the gear all the time"? I prefer my gear "high visual".
Might give you that extra dot of security.
Also, mind your electronic stuff (gps etc.) - they might not be that resistant to wet conditions.
Any luggage? Don't forget to waterproof the contents of your tankbag, topcase ...
For me, it comforts me when if I know the rain can't hurt or damage anything.
Don't underestimate rain but don't be afraid of it.
CU... Ed.
In order to ride 'relaxed' in the rain, it helps a lot if you are dry and comfortable. Worse part of riding in the rain is developing wet spots inside the gear and then have enough ventilation through them to make the evaporation feel really cold. It is entirely possible to suffer severe shaking, blue-lipped hypothermia in an 80F rain at 30mph in about 6 minutes if your gear is wet and well ventilated.
As a general rule of riding, one's elbows should not be straight or 'locked'. Especially in the the rain. And a rider should be loose enough in the arms and shoulders to waggle the elbows a little without wiggling the bars. If a rider feels a little tense in the rain, do in a little chicken dance with the elbows along a straight section is a nice way to loosen oneself up a little for a little while. Repeat as needed.
Depending on the length and temp and stress of the rain ride, it helps a lot to take a coffee break and ease the bladder and warm up and stretch out. The Archive of Wisdom says to pack the heated gear. Or have a few chemical heat packs on the bike. I once nearly froze to death in Iowa in August and have yet to travel w/o my elec gear since then. If you stop for coffee and to get warm, it is time to don the vest or open the heat pacs.
Some riding gear like my RoadCrafter has a ballistic nylon shell that gets soaked while the inner Gortex keeps me dry-ish. The exterior layer rides about 10F cooler than ambient temp due to evaporation. I might have too stop and put on a heavy shirt/or light fleece to keep the cold garment from sucking heat off lightly clad body. Learning how one's gear works in the rain is part of the experience curve.
fran
As a general rule of riding, one's elbows should not be straight or 'locked'. Especially in the the rain. And a rider should be loose enough in the arms and shoulders to waggle the elbows a little without wiggling the bars. If a rider feels a little tense in the rain, do in a little chicken dance with the elbows along a straight section is a nice way to loosen oneself up a little for a little while. Repeat as needed.
Depending on the length and temp and stress of the rain ride, it helps a lot to take a coffee break and ease the bladder and warm up and stretch out. The Archive of Wisdom says to pack the heated gear. Or have a few chemical heat packs on the bike. I once nearly froze to death in Iowa in August and have yet to travel w/o my elec gear since then. If you stop for coffee and to get warm, it is time to don the vest or open the heat pacs.
Some riding gear like my RoadCrafter has a ballistic nylon shell that gets soaked while the inner Gortex keeps me dry-ish. The exterior layer rides about 10F cooler than ambient temp due to evaporation. I might have too stop and put on a heavy shirt/or light fleece to keep the cold garment from sucking heat off lightly clad body. Learning how one's gear works in the rain is part of the experience curve.
fran
I won't repeat all of the good advice above as the topic appears to be well covered, but would add that you can also take this into consideration when purchasing tires. Some manufacturers make touring tires with an emphasis on wet conditions.
I've been amazed at how much traction is still available in the rain. Even at interstate speeds. Visibility is probably more of a concern than traction if you're following the above advice.
I've been amazed at how much traction is still available in the rain. Even at interstate speeds. Visibility is probably more of a concern than traction if you're following the above advice.
That's a great quote there.
If you ride in the rain enough, it's no longer a stressor, just another part of the ride. Like any time we ride, you're looking ahead, monitoring conditions and traffic around you and ready to avoid issues before they become a hazard to you. When I'm rain riding in California, I pay extra attention in corners to watch for the w-i-d-e white arrows they love to put on the road ahead of two lanes merging to one. Those are bat shit slick in the rain and I make sure I'm avoiding them, even to the point of doing it automatically when I'm only going strait. It's become second nature to not ride over the arrow after many miles in the rain there. Like navigating a tar snaked twisty road, you look for the best line and deal with what you have, and sometimes that means taking it down a notch too.
If you ride in the rain enough, it's no longer a stressor, just another part of the ride. Like any time we ride, you're looking ahead, monitoring conditions and traffic around you and ready to avoid issues before they become a hazard to you. When I'm rain riding in California, I pay extra attention in corners to watch for the w-i-d-e white arrows they love to put on the road ahead of two lanes merging to one. Those are bat shit slick in the rain and I make sure I'm avoiding them, even to the point of doing it automatically when I'm only going strait. It's become second nature to not ride over the arrow after many miles in the rain there. Like navigating a tar snaked twisty road, you look for the best line and deal with what you have, and sometimes that means taking it down a notch too.
To add to that, I ride regularly in rain in Florida, Road Runner is correct, if possible try not to stop on the shoulder on the interstate, but don't stop under overpasses/bridges in a torrential downpour either. You're not seen by other drivers until they're, likewise, underneath and the sheeting rain immediately stops and surprise! There are bikes on the shoulder!
My wife once pointed out that some riders were lucky to get under the overpass - I asked her when she saw them. She replied once the sheeting rain stopped. Kind of late... Sunshine State...? It rains a lot here.
My wife once pointed out that some riders were lucky to get under the overpass - I asked her when she saw them. She replied once the sheeting rain stopped. Kind of late... Sunshine State...? It rains a lot here.
Ride with the flow of traffic, try to stay in the tire tracks left by four-wheeled vehicles. No white-knuckling. If you've reached the point where you're no longer comfortable riding in rain, get off the road and let it pass. I have no issues riding in rain, drizzle through torrential but when it's heavy, bumper to bumper traffic, I'll get off the road. It's the other drivers that concern me... You know, the ones that are pissed off and want to kill me because I'm on a motorcycle... 
One thing I don't see addresses here is that your visibility will be greatly diminished. Cars have the terrific advantage of windshield wipers and we don't. Having ridden across New Mexico in a downpour, I made it a mere 400 miles or so because I couldn't see much through my constantly rain fouled visor AND fogged visor. While not the same as riding through a downpour, living in the Pacific Northwest, the "rain" we get here is treacherous! It makes everything wet and slick but never really washes those oils away!
I spend 2 years in Colorado with nothing but a motorcycle for my mode of transportation. I rode tour sudden downpours, snow, freezing temps (10F wasn't uncommon in winter) and pretty much whatever I had to. I hid under overpasses (where I could get well off the road) and weighted the risks. I rode at little more than idle speed with my feet skidding down the interstate (it was safer that surface streets) and pretty much did what I had to. Due to this, I feel that I don't need to ride in all nasty weather anymore, at least I won't begin a ride knowing I'll encounter wretched weather for hours. I've become a bit of a fair weather rider, comparatively.
What it all comes down to is risk acceptance. Your likelihood of achieving 1000 miles, to say nothing of 1500 miles, in wretched weather while not accepting intolerably intolerably high risk is highly unlikely. I have a 3000 mile trip in the works (SS1000 and BB1500) rolled into one, and I'll not bother with it until I know that I have a high likelihood of decent weather across the whole range, long days, etc, to maximize my chances of success. It was the same during my climbing/mountaineering days and during past cross country rides.
Visibility, staying warm and dry, and decent lighting are key in foul weather, good tires,
I spend 2 years in Colorado with nothing but a motorcycle for my mode of transportation. I rode tour sudden downpours, snow, freezing temps (10F wasn't uncommon in winter) and pretty much whatever I had to. I hid under overpasses (where I could get well off the road) and weighted the risks. I rode at little more than idle speed with my feet skidding down the interstate (it was safer that surface streets) and pretty much did what I had to. Due to this, I feel that I don't need to ride in all nasty weather anymore, at least I won't begin a ride knowing I'll encounter wretched weather for hours. I've become a bit of a fair weather rider, comparatively.
What it all comes down to is risk acceptance. Your likelihood of achieving 1000 miles, to say nothing of 1500 miles, in wretched weather while not accepting intolerably intolerably high risk is highly unlikely. I have a 3000 mile trip in the works (SS1000 and BB1500) rolled into one, and I'll not bother with it until I know that I have a high likelihood of decent weather across the whole range, long days, etc, to maximize my chances of success. It was the same during my climbing/mountaineering days and during past cross country rides.
Visibility, staying warm and dry, and decent lighting are key in foul weather, good tires,