Aux light installation

Paul Tong

Verified NIITWIt
Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#2
For me, the best bet is to get brackets that go under the mirrors. You can find some here: http://www.firecreekacc.com/install_lightbrackets.htm

I also think Mike Langford has a template to make the old PIAA style, which I prefer, because they drop down a bit further. This enables me to put two lights on each side.

I also use the LEDRider lights and they are, in my opinion, the best bang for the buck. If you need any other help while wiring them up, holler at me at paultong971@gmail.com.

-Paul T.
 

Patrick Ford

Premier Member
IBR Finisher
#3
I too have LEDRider lights on my Wing. I have the Cyclops extreme spots and they throw light way down the road. They replaced my PIAA 510s which were pretty good lights themselves. I decided to use the 510s too. The brackets in the pics look like the ones I used and a small gusset made them stable with both lights hanging out there. With 1300 watts to play with I don't notice the volt meter moving when I turn everything on.
I really like the LEDRider lights. JMHO.
 

kwthom

Premier Member
IBA Member
#4
So....how about a few good photos of some of these installations?

Here's my dilemma - the GL1800 lights are good...but do you really need 10000 lumens of lighting? If you have it and don't need it, it's one thing, I get it.

(the question above is only partially rhetorical...)

I 'd like to have a decent setup and not break the bank. Options welcomed.
 
#5
Just bought some Aux lights and a controller module. Any tips or gotchas from people who have done this before on how to install these on a 2013 Goldwing? I have never installed these on a Goldwing. Lots of YouTube videos on cowling lights, but aux lights, Nooo!!! Lol.

Here are the types of lights and control module.

LX5
http://ledrider.com/shop/?model_number=LX5

Control module IQ-275
http://ledrider.com/shop/?model_number=IQ-275
Michael, I have the exact same setup-same LX5 lights and same contoler just have not got around to installing yet. Also have the same Firecreek brakets. Any updates? How did it go?

Thanks,
Dan
 
#6
It went pretty smooth over all. I did put a switch in the little plastic piece right below the ignition key where the Goldwing logo is to set it higher when I want 20% driving lights, but I have found 10% is fine.

Really love the lights and the price point will nto break the bank. I was able to use these during the Butt Lite VIII rally many nights and it certainly help ID potential threats leaping on to the road.

I am kinda new to adding stuff to bikes and I was able to install it fine. I ran the controller in the area under the left hand pocket. I had some line noise on low beams to the audio. I added some ferrite cores to the wiring and moved stuff around. High beams had no whine. (shrug)
 

kwthom

Premier Member
IBA Member
#7
I've been in contact with Justin; his recommendation is echoed in this very thread...LX5's and the control module. Nearly ready to pull the trigger!

Did any of you guys tap into the high beam switch to activate the 100% mode on the lights? Seems to be a little slicker that way; been looking at the service manual to figure out where to pick off the signal in the event that is the way to go; looks like adjacent to the air filter is the wiring block that heads toward the switch. Wondering if it'd be better to pick it off there at the wire going to the switch.

If one was to consider having a separate switch, it'd be great to have something like this on the Wing - just haven't figured out a slick spot to mount it yet:

http://www.trailtech.net/electrical/light-switches/040-hbs-05
 
#8
I've been in contact with Justin; his recommendation is echoed in this very thread...LX5's and the control module. Nearly ready to pull the trigger!

Did any of you guys tap into the high beam switch to activate the 100% mode on the lights? Seems to be a little slicker that way; been looking at the service manual to figure out where to pick off the signal in the event that is the way to go; looks like adjacent to the air filter is the wiring block that heads toward the switch. Wondering if it'd be better to pick it off there at the wire going to the switch.

If one was to consider having a separate switch, it'd be great to have something like this on the Wing - just haven't figured out a slick spot to mount it yet:

http://www.trailtech.net/electrical/light-switches/040-hbs-05
I tapped my Clearwater lights into my high beam switch as well as my horn; I find the horn very useful except it flashes the person in front of me when I'm warning a car that that is moving into the lane from the right during HOV/Express-lane cross-over issues... regardless, it is a very nice feature - one less thing to think about, hit one button and everything but my airbag goes off.
 

rneal55555

Active Member
#9
I tapped my Clearwater lights into my high beam switch as well as my horn; I find the horn very useful except it flashes the person in front of me when I'm warning a car that that is moving into the lane from the right during HOV/Express-lane cross-over issues... regardless, it is a very nice feature - one less thing to think about, hit one button and everything but my airbag goes off.
I always worry that a light flash could be misinterpreted as go ahead or it's safe to proceed. Truck Drivers especially use a light flash to signal a passing truck its safe to comeback into the lane. Coupled with horn blast certainly makes a difference but would still make me nervous.
 

kwthom

Premier Member
IBA Member
#10
After consulting a few others that are using the LX-5's, the control module on my setup is wired to a relay and a switch. The switch is on the outside of the CB control pod, so easy to get to.

The switch turns on the aux lights at 10%, when the high beams are on, then I get 100% aux light. This setup worked very well on my trip back in October; no lighting issues.
 

kwthom

Premier Member
IBA Member
#15
Hope this helps someone in the future looking for this information.

There are two methods to hook up the Skene controller and any aux light onto a GL1800. I'll briefly explain why I did what I did.

Method 1: Exactly as described in the literature provided with the controller. In this manner, you'll always have aux lights as well as hi-beam lights with a single flick of the switch. Living in the great southwest, there's times that in certain locations (oh, let's say your neighborhood...) you'd want a bit of extra light (hi-beams), but NOT all of the light you have on the bike. I'll leave it up to the reader to ascertain if this situation, or others that you may experience, be the reason you're doing this. If you need a bit more choice, you should use Method 2 below.

Method 2: Simply add an appropriate-sized relay to the output of the Skene controller, and have the switch that controls the relay an independent switch. In my case, I can do low-beams and high-beams, just like OEM. The way mine is wired, with the low-beam active, hitting the aux light switch, the aux lights will illuminate at the 'low' setting (20%), thus they can be used as a kind of driving light. When I hit the high-beam switch, and the aux lights are off, again, normal high-beam illumination. With high beams active, the aux light switch energizes the Skene, which provides 100% illumination. The Skene controller needs a signal from the OEM wiring on the status of the lo/hi beam switch. This is tapped off the OEM control line that would operate the OEM driving lights. This is the 20%/100% function of the Skene without having to mess about with any other switches.

Wiring of method 2 is a bit more complex, but if you're taking the time to do this, might as well have as much flexability in how the lights function.

For me, this is the best compromise out there.
 
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